When I first told my family that I was traveling to Vichy, France, they gasped and said, “But you’re not interested in World War 2 history!”
Confused, I replied, “I don’t know what you’re talking about, but I do know that I love to visit unique spas all around the world. Haven’t you ever seen Vichy skincare products at the pharmacy?”
I quickly learned that Vichy means different things to different people. To my parents, Vichy, France was the the capital city of the French State during the middle of World War 2, when the Nazis were occupying most of northern France and Phillipe Pétain set up a new, conservative government that quietly collaborated with their Nazi occupiers. To me, Vichy, France was a spa town with mineral waters promising to cure every ailment and leaving me looking like a fresh-faced teenager by the time I departed.
What was it really? Something in-between. While it turned out that Vichy did have lots of spas, health centers and mineral waters, it turned out that I was more charmed by the beautiful Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture, the quiet side streets, the shady walking paths through the parks and rivers, and the delicious cuisine. I’m so glad I decided to visit… keep reading to see why!
Vichy Celestins Spa – Europe’s Largest Spa
The only reason I initially traveled to Vichy, France was to visit the Vichy Celestins Spa, which markets itself as being “Europe’s largest medical spa”. I’ve been to some pretty big spas (in particular, those in Baden-Baden, Germany, along with QC Terme Milano) so I was very interested to see how big this spa might be.
What I discovered was that most of the square footage here is devoted to treatment rooms rather than open facilities. Personally, I prefer spas where I can move freely between a wide variety of saunas, hammams and pools, rather than spas where I have to follow a prescribed routine or pay for specific services. What was available with a half-day pass? One thermal pool (capacity ten people), a handful of small saunas (capacity one person each), one steam room, a relaxation room, a cold foot bath and an iced tea bar. It was fine for an hour but certainly not comparable to other facilities like those linked above.
For research’s sake I also booked a package of spa treatments. Called their “signature trilogy” I started with a fifteen-minute Vichy bath (basically a Jacuzzi), then had a mud wrap, then had a twenty-five minute massage under a Vichy shower. The mud wrap was definitely a highlight, as it was so warm and cozy, but the Vichy bath and Vichy shower were underwhelming. That being said, my skin looked noticeably better after all three treatments.
Most people who partake in spa treatments in Vichy, France are doing it as part of a package that lasts for a week (or longer), under the supervision of a medical doctor. Thus, it’s not surprising that their offerings for half-day visitors weren’t mind-blowing.
The Best Things to Do in Vichy (Aside from the Spa!)
While you can certainly check into one of Vichy’s spas and spend an entire week indulging in paramedical treatments, you might be tempted to explore the rest of Vichy while you’re in town. Here are some more things to do in Vichy, France, all of which you can visit in one full day.
Hall des Sources
My first stop in Vichy was the Hall des Sources, a pavilion built to provide free access to the natural spring water to the public. Most of the pavilion is locked up and only accessible via a key card, which requires a prescription from a local doctor. Yes, you heard me, it is prescription-strength tap water. However, one of the sources is open to the public – Source Celestins – and you can freely fill your own cup or bottle, or buy a paper cup from the vending machine for thirty cents.
I was twice invited by a local curiste to come over into the prescription side, so I got to sample all of the different mineral waters. I joked to my family back home that I might die from mixing “prescription drugs” in unmeasured quantities… but again, it was just tap water. Some of it was quite hot, some of it was much stronger in flavor, but it was generally just super-mineralized tap water.
Parc des Sources
The Hall des Sources is located inside the Parc des Sources. You can stroll from the Hall des Sources through the park, past the Art Nouveau-era Opera House and the Casino du Grand Café, which was one of the first casinos to open in France. At the time of my visit, the opera and casino building was closed to the public, but signs outside indicated that there may be some special events held inside – ask at Tourist Information, which is right across the street.
Parc Napoleon III
Napoleon III (not the famous one) took a shining to Vichy and did a lot to convert it into the glamourous spa town that it was in its heyday. A park in his name runs along the Allier River, between the shores and Parc des Sources. This is a great area for walking, cycling or roller-skating, as the baths are well-maintained, wide and shady.
Les Bords de l’Allier
Vichy is located on the edge of the Allier River, and the town has developed a modern boardwalk area along the river’s edge. This vehicle-free zone is open to pedestrians and cyclists, and you’ll find beaches, playgrounds and beach bars lining the waterway. I tested the waters at Plage des Celestins, and while they were clean and refreshing, with a nice, sandy, man-made beach, the water was too shallow to really swim. It’s still a great place for kids who want to splash around in the water on a hot afternoon, though!
Eglise Saint-Blaise
There’s Art Nouveau and then there’s whatever this church is. The Lonely Planet says it looks like a Soviet space rocket; I don’t disagree. The interior is a jarring contrast, with colorful stained glass and vibrant frescoes. Adjacent to the larger church you’ll find a small chapel housing Vichy’s own “Black Virgin” statue. If the healing waters in Vichy don’t cure you, perhaps a prayer to its Vierge Noire will.
Mansions of Vichy
Although people have been coming to Vichy for its thermal waters for more than a thousand years, it wasn’t until Napoleon III visited in the 1860s that Vichy because a go-to destination for wealthy and fashionable French citizens. Over the next hundred years, countless mansion would be built throughout the town center, each representing the unique architectural trends of the moment and the whims of the owners and architects. Simply wandering through Vichy and looking at all the distinct homes is a wonderful way to spend an hour in the morning or before dinner.
Some of the most interesting mansions (like the two shown above) are located along Boulevard des Etats-Unis; these colorful homes were specifically built for Napoleon, his family and his inner circle.
Other Thermal Spas in Vichy
While Vichy Celestins is the largest spa in Europe and, of course, the most famous spa in Vichy, it’s not the only place where you can soak in the town’s mineral water. However, that being said, the other thermal spas are primarily designed for longer-term guests partaking in a comprehensive medical treatment plan. You can also look into visiting Thermes Les Domes Vichy or Thermes Callou Vichy.
Shop for Vichy Specialties
Back in the 1930s a doctor named Prosper Haller worked at medical clinics in Vichy. His interested in the healing properties of the thermal waters led to him creating a skincare collection called “The Secrets of Vichy”, which evolved over the years to the Vichy Laboratoires brand that is still on the market today. The city center is dotted with pharmacies that sell not only this brand, but also other, independent skincare brands that use the local volcanic mineral waters in their formulations. Prices here will be comparable to those at City Pharma in Paris, but it’s always fun to say you bought some Vichy in Vichy!
Aside from skincare products, Vichy is also well-known for its candy industry. The namesake treat is called a pastille de Vichy, an octagonal white mint that is said to aid in digestion. For the best prices, buy them in a supermarket near the check-out counter. For the best packaging, buy them at a specialty candy shop (like the pretty one shown above, in the city center) where you can also find nougat, homemade marshmallows, chocolates and other treats.
The Best Hotels in Vichy, France
Of course, the most obvious place to stay in Vichy is the Vichy Celestins Hotel, which is attached to the spa. Rooms here are modern and comfortable, designed to appeal to guests staying for a week or two as they access medical services at the spa. There is an on-site restaurant and bar, and parking is across the street.
Since I wasn’t staying long, I didn’t think I needed a luxurious hotel room. Instead, I booked a very inexpensive single room at Hotel California, a typical family-run hotel in the town center known for its friendly staff and high-quality breakfast. Note that they may not be able to accommodate an early check-in, so message them if you plan to arrive outside if reception hours (13:00-22:00). A similarly-priced property with a 24-hour reception desk is The Originals Boutique Hotel.
Most of the other spas and medical centers have attached hotels, including the Hotel des Thermes Callou and Mercure Vichy Thermalia. These could be good options if you’re considering a longer-term stay for medical treatment at either facility, but probably aren’t worth it for a quick one- or two-day trip.
Recommended Restaurants in Vichy, France
I was worried that I wouldn’t find good places to eat in Vichy, but it turned out to have a lot of amazing restaurants and cafes. Guidebooks will steer you towards old-fashioned brasseries and the bistros that were popular with Napoleon’s crew, but I personally recommend checking out the city’s more interesting new restaurants. These are all very close to the Parc des Sources and easily accessible by foot.
It took me an embarrassingly long time to make the connection between Vichy and vichyssoise. It’s not a coincidence that the word for France’s famous cold soup of leek, onion, potato and cream shares a name with this spa town, as the soup originates from the Vichy region. Note that vichyssoise is usually made with chicken stock, so it’s not vegetarian-friendly. If you’re not a vegetarian, definitely order a bowl while you’re in town!
Grand Marché Couvert
One of the most enjoyable meals I had in Vichy was self-catered. I stopped by the Grand Marché Couvert, or the Large Covered Market, where more than 60 local vendors fill 6800 square meters (!) with market stalls brimming with fresh, seasonal, local products. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 am to 1:00 pm, so stop by to prepare a picnic lunch of fresh bread, cheese, fruits and vegetables, then head to Parc des Sources to enjoy your findings. You can also stop here to get some snacks before a long train journey; it’s also just ten minutes away from the station.
WOF – Vegan Waffles
I was really excited to find this vegan waffle restaurant in the center of Vichy. They have a few tables inside and outside, and can also do takeaway service for their sweet and savory pancakes. I definitely eyed the sweet almond waffle, but thought should eat more vegetables so I ordered their waffle with pea puree, fresh peas and smoked tofu, along with a bottle of delicious apple cider. This is more of a lunch place, so don’t wait until late evening to come by (as they’ll be closed).
Le Vichy
This one really surprised me too! Le Vichy has a menu board that changes each day, and you can reliably find at least one awesome vegetarian dish on it. When I visited on my last day in Vichy they had a “salade veggie” with… wait for it… samosas, falafel, a tartine and traditional salad greens. There was such an explosion of flavors and high-quality ingredients! The only thing about Le Vichy is that service tends to be slow, so be patient!
Le Comptoir du Croque
Sometimes you just want a sandwich with extra cheese on top. And when you’ve got that feeling, Le Comptoir du Croque has you covered. This is their vegetarian croque, with vegetables and fresh cheese stuffed inside the sandwich, which then gets topped with more cheese, broiled, and topped with even more veggies. The fries and salad on the side are just an added bonus! They also do lots of sandwiches with meat and chicken, making this a great place to come with your family as everyone will be able to find something they like.
Venus Coffee Shop & Roasters
I’ve been underwhelmed by French coffee (it always tastes watery to me?) but this coffee shop served some of the best hot and cold coffee I’ve had in France. There’s no table service here, so go inside to the counter, let the barista know what you’d like (they also have soft drinks, beer and even cocktails!) then take your drink out to one of the tables on the sidewalk.
Josephine Creperie
If you’re a group you’ll definitely want to make a reservation at Josephine Creperie, near Place des Chemin. This restaurants gets really busy with locals and visitors who want a lighter meal. I had one of their galettes (savory buckwheat crepes) with fresh veggies like carrots, zucchini and even fennel inside. It seems I forgot to take a picture, but trust me that it was good!
La Table d’Antoine
Are you rich? I’m not, so I didn’t eat here. However, I’d be remiss not to include La Table d’Antoine, which has been singled out by Michelin Guides not for a star, but rather for a bib, which signifies “good quality, good value cooking”. Still, with most of the tasting menus costing between €50 an €70, and none looking particularly-vegetarian friendly, I skipped this one.
Au Fidele Berger
This restaurant dates back to 1863, making it one of Vichy’s most iconic places to eat. Depending on the day and time it may be serving as a bistro or as a teahouse; since I could never figure it out I didn’t stop by for a meal. However, if you’re a traveler who is into history and wants to step back in time to Vichy’s glory days, make sure to pop in for a meal.
How to Get to Vichy, France
Vichy is located in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, about 350 kilometers south of Paris. Clermont-Ferrand is the nearest large city, about seventy kilometers further south, while Lyon (160 kilometers east) is the regional capital. It’s easy to drive from Paris to Vichy, but if you don’t have a car there are a number of public transportation options. Vichy’s train station is a ten-minute walk from the city center, so even with luggage it’s quite easy to arrive by train.
Getting to Vichy from Paris
The easiest way to travel from Paris to Vichy is by intercity train. The trip takes about three hours. Most afternoons, a train from Paris’ Gare de Bercy departs for Clermont-Ferrand, stopping in Vichy en route. However, depending on the day of the week and the time of day, a direct train might not be possible. In this case, it’s easiest to take a train from Paris’ Gare de Lyon to Lyon, then change to a regional train to Vichy. A high-speed train from Paris to Lyon takes about two hours, and a regional train from Lyon to Vichy takes another two hours.
Getting to Vichy from Lyon
I arrived in Vichy from Lyon. During the day, trains run about every two hours, and the trip takes just under two hours. You can save a bit of money on some trips by adding a fifteen-minute transfer at Saint-Germain-des-Fosses, but for me it’s not worth the risk of a missed connection.
Planning a trip to Lyon? Check out my guide to the best things to do in Lyon in 1 or 2 days!
Have you heard of Vichy before? Is it a place you’d consider visiting? Let me know in the comments!
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