I recently visited Bologna for the second time, spending five days in this terracotta town in the heart of Italy. My previous visit had been too rushed, so this time I wanted to slow down, spend more time strolling, sipping and savoring, and really get to know the capital of Emilia-Romagna. However, I know that not everyone has five full days to spend in Bologna, which is why I wanted to take my experience and narrow it down into the essential guide to spending one day in Bologna.
This one-day Bologna itinerary starts with an early wake-up in your hotel (try to be out the door before 9:00 am) or an early luggage drop at the train station. From there, you’ll have a quick Italian-style breakfast before spending a full day exploring the historic center of Bologna, taking in the city’s most famous attractions and sampling some of the dishes that led to Bologna being named the World Food Capital in 2022.
Introduction to Bologna
Bologna is located in north-central Italy, approximately midway between Venice and Florence. Bologna is the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region and is home to just under 400,000 residents.
Bologna is frequently called “la rossa, la grassa, la dotta”, which translates to “the red, the fat, the learned”. As soon as you pass by the old gate to the city – Porta Galleria – and arrive in the historic city center you’ll understand why.
Of course, you’ll immediately see the red bricks and red roofs on Bologna’s buildings that give the city its colorful nickname, and if you talk to locals long enough you’ll also learn that “the red” refers to residents’ left-leaning political views.
As you wander the streets of the market district you’ll understand where the nickname “the fat” came from, as restaurant serve up traditional Bolognese dishes like heaping bowls of tortellini and plates of sliced prosciutto ham from nearby Parma.
And if you follow my one-day Bologna itinerary, after lunch you’ll discover parts of the city’s historic university, which is the oldest in Europe and the inspiration for the nickname “the learned”.
Where to Stay in Bologna
My Bologna itinerary assumes you’ll have one full day in the city, meaning you probably spent the previous night here. Since I was arriving and departing Bologna by train, I wanted a hotel in the historic center that also had convenient access to the Bologna Centrale train station. Here are three great options:
- Hotel Centrale – I stayed in this affordable hotel midway between the train station and Piazza Maggiore. I highly recommend it for budget and mid-range travelers coming and going by train.
- Biblio Rooms Guesthouse – Beautifully-themed rooms are the draw at this charming guesthouse run by an English-speaking local. You’re just three blocks away from the cathedral here.
- Art Hotel Commercianti – In the 1300s, this building was Bologna’s Town Hall. Today, it’s a four-star hotel with private parking, award-winning room design and one of the most central locations in the city.
Luggage Storage in Bologna
If you’re not spending the night in Bologna, and are just changing trains here (as many people do), you’ll need a place to store your luggage while you’re out exploring the city. There are at least four different luggage storage services at the Bologna Centrale train station (some inside, some on the piazza outside or across the street), so check Google reviews and then chat with the staff to confirm prices and opening hours. These are also good options if you need to store your luggage in Bologna before you check into a rented apartment.
With your bags safely stored at your hotel or in luggage storage, let’s get this tour of Bologna started!
Breakfast in Bologna
I know it’s tempting to just bite into a wedge of Parmesan cheese for breakfast, but I recommend you make like a local and start your day with a typical Italian breakfast of a pastry and a coffee. If you’re staying at one of the central hotels I listed above, it’s an easy stroll to any of these cafes:
- Terzi – A typical Italian coffee shop in a great central location. Try the marzipan coffee!
- Forno Brisa – This artisanal pastry shop has three locations dotted around edges of central Bologna; I like the location on Via Galliera that is near Hotel Centrale.
- Café Pasticceria Gamberini – Very close to Biblio Rooms Guesthouse, this historic cafe has gilded chandliers and display cases filled with elaborate sweet treats.
- Aroma Specialty Coffee – This coffee shop is a bit further from the center of Bologna but is known as the place to go for (as its name suggests) specialty coffees like single-origin espressos and elaborate coffee-based drinks.
Window to the Canal
Our first stop on the Tour de Bologna is a little-known secret spot on the north side of the historic center, a few blocks away from the Bologna Centrale train station.
At Via Piella 16 you’ll find the “Window to the Canal”, a small cut-out in the wall that gives a glimpse of one of the few remaining above-ground canals in Bologna. Since Bologna is not located on a river, these canals were created in the medieval era to move goods and supply the city with water. Most of the city’s canals now run through pipes underground, but a few are still tucked away behind buildings, visible only from secret viewpoints.
The Jewish Ghetto
From the window to the canal, head southeast through the neighborhood known as the Jewish Ghetto. During the Renaissance, the Catholic Church forced all Jewish people to live in this district until they were permanently expelled in the late 1500s.
In this area you’ll find the Jewish Museum of Bologna, which features permanent galleries about the region’s Jewish history and temporary exhibits about related topics. Nearby, at Via dell’Inferno 16, you’ll find the district’s former synagogue.
The Two Towers
In the Middle Ages, Bologna was known as a city of towers. There were more than ninety towers throughout the city, built both for military reasons and to show off the city’s prestigious wealth. Today, only 22 towers remain standing in Bologna. The two most famous are Torre Asinelli and Torre Garisenda, which are located just outside the Jewish Ghetto on Piazza di Porta Ravegnana.
(I know my photo of the Two Towers in Bologna looks kind of grainy, but it’s actually totally in focus! It’s just all the swallows who make their home in the towers’ little windows, flying around in the air and creating little blurry spots! The sounds these tiny birds can make en masse is incredible!)
Piazza Santa Stefano
From the towers, walk four minutes to Piazza Santa Stefano. Also known as Piazza delle Sette Chiese (Square of Seven Churches), the most important building on this square is the Basilica of Santo Stefano. Composed of four different religious buildings (previously seven, as per the nickname), this site dates back to the early middle ages and is laden with mythology and symbolism.
I really enjoyed exploring this quiet church complex, including both the interiors of the churches and the cloisters and gardens outside the buildings. It was free to enter and at the time of my visit they weren’t enforcing any kind of dress code (more on that below!).
Gelateria Santa Stefano
If it’s 11:00 or later, you might want to walk eight minutes down the street to Cremeria Santo Stefano, one of the best gelato shops in Bologna. Here, they use seasonal, regional ingredients to make creative flavors like Mascarpone and Pinenut, Salted Pistachio or Budino (Italian egg custard).
Cremeria La Vecchia Stalla
Another good option for gelato in Bologna is La Vecchia Stalla (“The Old Stall”) which is right on Piazza Santa Stefano… but it doesn’t open until noon. I can personally highly recommend their “Valle dei Templi” flavor, which is inspired by the Valley of the Temples in Sicily and consists of an almond gelato base with pistachio pieces.
The Quadrilatero / Bologna’s Old Market District
Bologna’s main square is only a few blocks away, but to reach it you will walk through the Quadrilatero, or Bologna’s old market district. This is a food-lover’s paradise, with covered markets, family-run shops, street food vendors, bakeries and even wine bars lining the narrow streets. A few stops that stood out to me in this neighborhood included:
- Mercato di Mezzo – Bologna’s first indoor market underwent extensive renovations in 2014. Today, it’s a bustling, two-level arcade with restaurants, food stalls and gourmet shops.
- Impero Caprarie – A bakery by day and aperitivo bar by night. If you’ve never had a typical Italian aperitivo, where your cocktail comes with complimentary savory snacks from the buffet, come back here in the evening to try this tradition.
- Ceccarelli Gastronomia – I’m a vegetarian so I didn’t sample their famous mortadella ham, but this shop also has amazing local cheeses (including a Parmesan that has been aged for 60 months).
- Drogheria Gilberto – Situated in a former pharmacy, this is a great place to shop for culinary souvenirs and gifts like chocolates, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
- Paolo Atti & Figli – For almost 150 years this family-run business has been baking bread, stuffing fresh pasta and slicing local meats.
- Sfoglia Rina – Several locals recommended that I have a meal at this pasta restaurant that serves the city’s famous tortellini and tortelloni, plus weekly rotating specials (always including a vegan and gluten-free option!).
- Osteria del Sole – The oldest bar in Bologna has been on this site since 1465. Suddenly I don’t feel quite so old! Only beer and wine are served inside their historic premises, so guests are invited to bring their own picnic snacks from the surrounding shops. Note: Entrance is limited to paying (drinking) customers.
Lunch in Bologna
You might now be thinking about having lunch in Bologna, and fortunately you’re already in the heart of the city’s food scene. The Quadrilatero District is home to many of the city’s best restaurants and food shops, so you’ve got lots of excellent lunch choices just steps away.
Bologna is an internationally-renowned culinary capital, so with only one day in Bologna it makes sense to eat as locally as possible. Both Sfoglia Rina and Mercato di Mezzo are good options for a basic, budget-friendly lunch featuring local ingredients and typical Bolognese dishes.
A few other options that aren’t too far away include:
- Ristorante Da Cesari – This is old-school Italian charm. They’ve got wine, they’ve got pasta, they’ve got meat and they’ve got something vegetarian, although exactly what will depend on what’s in season. Arrive a few minutes before they open at 12:30 for your best chance of getting a seat at lunch.
- Osteria Le Moline – This relaxed little restaurant does charcuterie boards, pasta, salads and spritzes… what more could you ask for?
- Piadineria la Piadeina – If you’re considering doing a Bologna food tour (see below) later this afternoon, I’d recommend just having a light lunch like a piadina, which is a typical local sandwich.
Piazza Maggiore
After lunch, make your way to city’s most important square: Piazza Maggiore. Bologna’s central square dates back to the fifteenth-century, and it’s not difficult to imagine merchants passing through with their wares as maidens watch, wide-eyed, from under the arched portici.
At the time of my visit the piazza was set up as an outdoor summer cinema, so I don’t have a good photo of the entire area. However, I did take lots of pictures of the buildings and monuments around it!
Basilica di San Petronio
Be forewarned: The dress code at Bologna’s most central basilica is strict, and enforced mainly for tourists. If you’re a woman wearing anything the staff at the door don’t approve of (it varies) or if you’re a man wearing extremely little, you will be asked to purchase a €2 “cover-up” that basically covers nothing but that will get you through the door to his church, which is otherwise free. Other churches in Bologna don’t seem to enforce any kind of dress code, which makes this seem like a money grab.
I wasn’t too impressed with the interior of this basilica, although it does house the longest sundial in the world (measuring in at more than 67 meters!). The cavernous interior is mostly empty, and the most beautiful chapel – the Chapel of the Magi – charges a separate €5 admission fee. However, since it’s free to come inside, if you’re dressed properly then it’s worth ten minutes of your day in Bologna.
Palazzo d’Accursio
This pretty red building just off Piazza Maggiore has a lovely courtyard where you can get some respite from the heat if you’re spending one day in Bologna in the summer!
You can walk right into the building and go up the grand staircase, which will eventually take you to the city’s Municipal Art Collections, which features local arts and crafts dating back to the Medieval Era. Or, you can go up even higher and ascend the…
Clock Tower
Even if you only have one day in Bologna, you definitely have to ascend at least one of its famous towers! Since the “Two Towers” were closed during my visit, I decided to ascend the Clock Tower (Torre dell’Orologio) inside Palazzo d’Accursio. You can actually take an elevator from street level up to the entrance to the tower, but after that it is spiral stairs most of the way up.
From the top of the Bologna Clock Tower you’ll have beautiful views of the historic city center, including churches, piazzas, monuments and the hills around the city center. En route you’ll be able to see the inner workings of the city’s huge clock and learn about the history of the monument.
Fountain of Neptune
Piazza del Nettuno sits just behind Piazza Maggiore and is home to the most famous fountain in Bologna: The Fountain of Neptune. So why is there a fountain celebrating the God of the Sea in the middle of a land-locked city? Well, it was actually constructed at the request of Pope Pius IV in 1565. The Pope wanted something to showcase his power, and he viewed his own rule of the land is being equal in strength to that of Neptune ruling the seas.
Historians report that the Pope annoyed the fountain’s sculptor by having him reduce the size of Neptune’s “manhood”, which he viewed as obscene. In retaliation, the sculpture hid a plausibly-deniable secret of his own. Walk behind the fountain and slightly to the right, and look for a single, dark-colored tile in the ground. If you stand on the tile and look back at the fountain, you will see exactly what I mean. 😉
Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio
If you’ve ever wondered what a Renaissance autopsy was like, you will find your answer in Bologna’s Anatomical Theatre. The ornate interior of this palace is carved from spruce trees and features figures like Apollo (apparently he was also the god of medicine?) and Hippocrates (of the Hippocratic Oath). Your admission also includes access to the Stabat Mater Hall (if it’s not being used), an elaborately-decorated classroom once used by the university’s law students.
Basilica of San Domenico
For me, the Basilica of San Domenico was the most beautiful church that I visited in Bologna (and I was there almost a week, so I visited a lot!). The interior is opulent and ornate, and rich with color.
A particular highlight of visiting the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna is having the opportunity to see an early work by Michelangelo Buonarroti. He contributed several carvings to the marble arc located in the Chapel of San Domenico (shown above). The arc is home to the remains of Saint Dominic, the patron saint of astronomers and natural scientists.
Late Afternoon in Bologna: Two Options
By now, it’s probably approaching the later afternoon in Bologna, and I have two options to end your day in the city. The first is a Secret Food Tour that will give you more insight into Bologna the Fat, and the second is the antithesis, a 90-minute walk to (or from!) the hilltop Basilica of San Luca.
Option 1: A Secret Food Tour of Bologna
This option requires advance booking, as tickets for Bologna’s Secret Food Tours often sell out weeks in advance. They run an afternoon food tour in Bologna that starts at 3:00 pm at Palazzo della Mercanzia, near the Two Towers you saw in the morning.
I took a Secret Food Tour in Bologna and I can definitely recommend this activity in Bologna! In fact, on my tour, there was a couple who came from Florence just for the afternoon to take the tour, as they knew about Bologna’s legendary food scene (remember, “La Grassa”!) and Secret Food Tours has such a good reputation. If you want to know about everywhere we went and everything we ate and drink, you can read my review here.
On the tour you can expect to sample different foods including meat, cheese, bread, balsamic vinegar, pasta, baked goods and ice cream. There’s an optional upgraded drink package, and if you contact the tour company after booking then they can also organize a vegetarian option. If you’re a foodie, this is a must!
Option 2: The Basilica of San Luca and the World’s Longest Portici
Just to the southwest of the historical city center there is a hilltop basilica which is home to the highest dome in Europe that is open to visitors. The Basilica of San Luca is connected to the historical city center by a 3.8-kilometer portico-covered pathway, the longest in the world. If you’re not hungry enough for a food tour, you could cross these two record-breaking attractions off your to-do list in one of four different ways:
- Recommended – Take the San Luca Express miniature train up the hill to the Basilica, and then walk back to town under the portici (the return trip should take about an hour).
- Alternative – Walk up the hill to San Luca under the portici (which will take about 90 minutes and includes some steep uphill stretches) and then take the train back.
- Alternative – Take the San Luca Express miniature train in both directions, getting off at the basilica and spending an hour or so at the church and dome
- Alternative – Take the public bus #58 to and/or from the Basilica of San Luca. The schedule in Google Maps should be reliable, and for tickets I believe you buy a regular bus ticket from any of the tobacconists in the city center (buy two, as you’ll need a ticket to get up and another to get down).
The tourist train only sells return tickets, so there are no savings if you only take it in one direction. However, I do believe it’s worth walking under the porticos and seeing all the elaborate arches that have been constructed along the route. Whether you walk up or down just depends on your level of fitness (and how much time you have).
You’ll need about an hour at the top, and that includes enough time to explore the basilica, do the San Luca Sky Experience (which takes you up 100 tiny spiral stairs to the church’s cupola) and walk to the scenic viewpoint to get the photo of the church shown above.
Is One Day in Bologna Worth It?
Absolutely! Bologna is a beautiful city with a very compact, walkable city center. There are lots of things to see in Bologna in just one day, and there are lots of options depending on whether you are more interested in exploring the city’s rich history or its rich culinary scene. One day is just enough time to get a taste of what this city in Italy has to offer, and I’m confident in saying that once you’ve spent one day in Bologna, you’ll be inspired to come back for more!
I love spending my summers exploring Italy and you can read all of my Italy travel guides for more insider tips on making the most of your trip.
Have you been to Bologna? What did you enjoy the most? Let me know in the comments below!
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