I recently spent one day in Dijon, France and I have to say that this city took me by surprise! I didn’t know much about Dijon before I visited, but I was really impressed by the amazing culinary scene (centered around the city’s huge food market), the well-preserved traditional architecture and the many things to do in the historic center – including several that were free!
I ended up spending more than ten hours in Dijon, and I only returned to my hotel in nearby Beaune because the last train was calling my name. If I was returning to Burgundy, I wouldn’t hesitate to make Dijon my home base and use it as a hub to make day trips around the region. There are just so many things to do in Dijon (and so many things to eat and drink!) that it really does deserve a spot on your France itinerary.
In this guide I’m going to introduce all of the things you can see and do in just one day in Dijon. These highlights are all within easy walking distance of the train station and the historic center, but at the end I will also give you some tips on taking the tram back to the train station to give your feet a break.
Arriving in Dijon
The main train station in Dijon is on the west side of the historic city center. It is a five-minute walk to Rue de la Liberté, which is one of the main pedestrian shopping streets that heads directly to the main square.
To find Rue de la Liberte, I recommend exiting the train station at Rue Henri Vincenot and walking through (or just alongside) Jardin Darcy, a pretty little park. When you’ve reached the historic stone arch, you’ll know you’ve arrived.
There is a tourist information office at the train station in Dijon. You can swing by to pick up a tourist map, or join one of the guided tours that depart from nearby Jardin Darcy.
The Owls of Dijon
On the wall of the Church of Notre Dame (more on this later) there is a small stone carving of an owl. Over the years, this owl has become the symbol of the city, and you’ll find representations of owls everywhere you look.
One option for exploring Dijon is to follow “The Owl Trail” (in French, “Parcours de la Chouette“). This is a marked walking route with twenty-two stops at the city’s most important and historic sites.
You can purchase a map of the route (including explanations) for about €4 at the Tourist Information office, or supposedly you can download an app version for Android phones from the Google Play store (I couldn’t even find it on my Canadian iPhone or my laptop though, as the link on the Tourist Information website was dead).
La Maison Maille Mustard Shop
Within a few minutes of starting your stroll on Rue de la Liberté you will find your first Dijon landmark: the historic Maison Maille mustard shop. This was the famous mustard company’s first shop, having opened in 1845. Here, they have far more varieties of their mustard than you’ll find on the shelf back home, and tastings are available to help you find the perfect product.
I recommend visiting the shop as you arrive in Dijon (as crowds are smaller in the morning), but then returning to purchase as you head back to the train station so that you don’t have to carry a bunch of mustard jars around all day!
The Half-Timbered Houses of Dijon
As you explore the historic center of Dijon you’ll notice a number of wooden buildings called half-timbered houses. The half-timbered name refers to the architectural style in which the exterior load-bearing wooden beams are left uncovered, so they form a decorative part of the building’s facade. The space between the beams is filled with something else, like straw, bricks or stone, so that “half” of the facade is “timber”.
The most famous half-timbered houses in Dijon are located one block past the Maille mustard shop, on the same side of the street. Known as the “Maison aux Trois Visages”, or “House With Three Faces”, this three-gabled building dates back to the late 1400s. Of course, as luck would have it most of the facade was undergoing restoration work during my visit, but I found many other beautiful half-timbered houses around the historic center.
Place François-Rude
Walking further down Rue de la Liberté, it won’t be long before you arrive at Place François-Rude. This square was named after a well-known Dijonnais sculptor; you’ll see him again later in the day.
You’ll know you’re here when you see the large fountain and the pretty half-timber house with red-painted beams. The fountain is topped with a bronze sculpture of a harvest stomping on grapes, acknowledging Burgundy’s rich wine-making tradition.
⭐ Speaking of wine, my #1 recommendation for travelers in Burgundy is a full-day wine tour through the region’s small towns and vineyards. Learn more and sign up at the link. ⭐
I recommend visiting Dijon on a Tuesday, Thursday, Friday or Saturday, as that is when the city’s food market is open and bustling. In fact, you may find vendors selling their goods right here in the plaza. If they’re not, though, make a left turn here and follow the pedestrian street for two blocks to reach the glass-walled market building.
Les Halles de Dijon
If you’ve come on a market day, then Les Halles de Dijon will be a highlight of your visit. The covered market here dates back to the late 1800s and covers more than 4,000 square meters.
Plan to spend about thirty minutes just browsing this sprawling foodie paradise. You’ll find lots of beautiful fresh, seasonal produce, often directly from the farm where it is grown. There are also shops selling cheese, milk, meat, fish and baked goods. I had only had a banana and coffee for breakfast in Beaune that morning, so I picked up a gougere (a savory, cheesy puffed pastry) that was to die for.
In the middle of the market there is a small bar where you can pause to order a drink – I was there around 11:00 am and most locals were enjoying coffee, but a few had already started on Crémant, the local sparkling wine.
Notre Dame Church
Exiting Les Halles de Dijon, you can see the dark-colored spire of Notre Dame Church to the east. One of the best examples of Gothic architecture in the region, the church’s 13th-century rectangular western facade consists of arches and columns.
One of the most interesting things inside this church is the Black Virgin in the altar to the right of the apse. Just from looking at it, I couldn’t figure out why it was called a black virgin, as to my eyes it appeared to be carved from pale wood. It turns out that this wooden figurine that dates back to the 1100s was painted black only in the sixteenth century, as black virgins were believed to be more powerful. This ruse was discovered shortly after World War 2 and the black paint was stripped off, but then reapplied, and then finally stripped off again in the 1960s. Who knows what color she will be a hundred years from today?
Dijon’s famous owl symbol was also birthed here, on the exterior wall of an altar on the north side of the church. It’s said that if you rub the owl with your left hand and make a wish, all of your dreams will come true. 🦉
Hôtel de Vogüé
The Burgundy region is famous for its unique varnished tile roofs, and the best example of these in Dijon can be found here at the Hôtel de Vogüé. A former hôtel particulier, or opulent single-family home, today the Hôtel de Vogüé serves as a government building with a courtyard and garden open to the public and occasional temporary exhibits inside.
I visited the gardens first – they are not well-marked so few people seem to venture inside. The gardens have a short trail dotted with comfortable seats and even a few tables tucked under some shady trees. This would be a great place for a picnic lunch using ingredients purchased from Les Halles.
After I spent a few minutes relaxing in the gardens I went to the courtyard. Don’t stop in the doorway – walk all the way across and turn around, as the most beautiful part of the building is the carved arches over the interior of the entrance.
The Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy & the Museum of Fine Arts
I was so surprised to discover that a building with a name like “The Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy” would be completely free to visit! The first palace buildings here were built in the 1400s, and over the next four hundred years more and more buildings were added to form the huge complex that can be visited today.
Inside, the Museum of Fine Arts is one of the best free things to do in Dijon. One of the most important museums in France, it has been open to the public since 1799 (only six years after the Louvre!). Its collections include nearly 150,000 pieces dating from Ancient Egypt to contemporary times. It’s easy to follow the numbered rooms through the different galleries, and many parts of the museum are wheelchair-accessible. Plan to spend one to two hours inside, depending on your interest in the arts and how many other museums you’ll be visiting on your trip.
⭐ There are free public toilets in the courtyard of the palace. They are self-cleaning, so don’t try to sneak in when the sign says “occupied” or you could get a very unpleasant spray! Wait for the sign to say “libre”, which means “free”. ⭐
Phillipe Le Bon Tower
Located inside the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, the Phillipe Le Bon Tower rises more than 45 meters of the historic center of Dijon. It costs €6 to ascend the tower via 316 stairs stairs, and at the top you’ll have 360° views of the city.
If you want to go up the tower you should reserve in advance. Unfortunately I hadn’t realized this and there were no spots left on the day I visited. If you’re only in Dijon for one day then you should book in advance online, but if you’re staying in the city for a few days it’s fine to book a day or two in advance at the tourist information office inside the palace.
Saint Michael’s Church
There has been a church on this site since the early middle ages, although back then it was a simple wooden construction. The Gothic and Renaissance building you can visit today dates back to the 1500s. It’s worth popping inside to see the beautiful Renaissance artworks on display, including paintings and stone carvings.
The François Rude Museum
On the same square as Saint Michael’s Church you’ll find another church (Saint Stephen’s) that is now home to the Francois Rude Museum. If you’re standing on the square facing Saint Michael’s, the museum is on your right.
It’s free to enter the Rude Museum, and inside you’ll a collection of the works by the important sculptor from Dijon. He is best known for his work Le Marseillais, also known as “The Departure of the Volunteers”, which is carved into the Arc de Triomph in Paris. One of four monumental sculptures on the Arc, it has long been considered to be the best of the four, and here in the Rude Museum in Dijon you can see a cast of the work.
There are eighteen other pieces on display inside the museum. As well, the church houses the remains of the castrum, the Ancient Roman military fortress that stood here in the third and fourth centuries, when Dijon was known as Divio.
Maison des Cariatides
Just north of the church, at 28 Rue Chaudronnerie, you’ll find one of the most interesting buildings in Dijon. Called the “Maison des Cariatides”, or the “House of Caryatids” in English, this seventeenth-century building features ten caryatids, or female sculptures that form part of the supports of the building. The design is centered around a carving of a cauldron, as the family who built this building were boilermakers.
Fun Fact: The male version of a caryatid is an atlantid.
📍 The next few sights to see in Dijon are still in the historic center, but a short walk southwest from the most famous monuments. If you don’t have any more time, you can end your Djion visit here and return to the train station (but I think it’s worth continuing!).
Mulot Et Petitjean Gingerbread Shop
Quite likely the world’s cutest gingerbread shop (prove me wrong!), Mulot Et Petitjean is a family-run shop that has been located in this beautiful 15th-century storefront for 225 years. Gingerbread piqued the interest of Burgundy’s noble families during the Middle Ages, and while there were as many as twelve gingerbread shops in the city at one point in history, today Mulot et Petitjean is the last that remains. Currently, the ninth generation of the same family is running the show!
Here, you can buy loaves of gingerbread in all sorts of flavors, from traditional plain gingerbread to fig and honey to, of course, mustard. They also sell nonnettes, which are muffin-shaped, jam-filled gingerbread bites, and lots of other sweet treats.
It’s also possible to visit the Mulot and Petitjean gingerbread factory. It’s located at 6 Boulevard de l’Ouest, which is about a fifteen-minute walk behind the train station. You could add it to the end of this itinerary by taking northbound bus #12 from the Cite de la Gastronomie to the gingerbread factory. Confirm the current opening hours before heading out that way.
Museum of Burgundian Life
I was not originally planning to visit this museum, but then I saw it described as “creepy” and had to add it to my Dijon itinerary. It actually turned out to be a very pleasant surprise… especially since it was free!
Located inside a historic nunnery, this ethnographic museum consists of two distinct areas. The ground floor is definitely the one that might be described by some as creepy, primarily due to the use of empty-eyed mannequins to display the museum founder’s collection of 19th-century objects representing the journey from birth to death.
Upstairs, actual shops and businesses that used to line the streets of Dijon have been recreated, down to the most minute details. You can’t walk inside the exhibits, but from the entrances you can see what a historic grocery, pharmacy or watchmaker’s shop in Dijon would have looked like. This floor also features typical museum-style gallery rooms with exhibits focused on regional arts and crafts.
Plan to spend between 45 and 90 minutes exploring both levels of the museum; longer if you’re a fan of ethnography, less if you’re just mildly curious (or visiting Dijon with kids).
The International Cité of Gastronomy and Wine
This is definitely a detour from the historic center, but it’s not that far from the gingerbread shop and the Museum of Burgundian Life. Opened in 2022, this center covers more than six hectares and is home to restaurants, wine bars, post-secondary institutes, boutiques and various different exhibition spaces.
I need to say that I found the experience of visiting the International City of Gastronomy and Wine a bit confusing. I didn’t understand what was free and what required a ticket, so I just paid €6.00 for a ticket that included “all exhibitions” and started wandering around. From what I can gather, this gave me access to the following areas:
- À table – On the ground floor, an exhibit about the interplay between French food and culture. There were many digital displays that were available in French, English and German.
- En cuisine – Upstairs, an interactive exhibit that explores how the five senses help you experience food. This is also where the weirdest, most complicated Master Chef-inspired simulation takes place.
- Temporary exhibitions – At the time of my visit, it was about wine and food in comics.
- The two chapels – Read more about these below.
I saw a lot of families with kids at this Dijon attraction, and I can see why. It is indoors, it has air conditioning, and there are lots of hands-on experiences (albeit some that are a bit confusing) to keep a child engaged. For adults, €6.00 is a reasonable price to have a look around, and you might find something that piques your interest.
The Cité Chapels
There are two chapels at the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, and they couldn’t be more different!
- La chapelle des climats et des terroirs – Shown above, this contemporary exhibit is housed inside the former Grand Chapelle of the hospital that once stood on this site. Here, the religion is Burgundy wine and the natural landscapes that give the wine its unique characteristics.
- Chapelle Sainte-Croix de Jérusalem – Dating back to to 1400s, this little chapel is home to a high relief and several murals. The building was carefully restored between 2020 and 2022. It’s free to enter the chapel but it is protected by a gate, which can be opened with your Cité ticket or with a free ticket you can pick up at the ticket office.
Taking the Tram in Dijon
From the International City of Gastronomy and Wine, you can walk back to the train station in fifteen minutes, or hop on the tram. I opted for the tram (purely for research purposes, of course!).
There is a ticket machine at the tram station by the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin. Your first trip will cost €1.70, which is €1.40 for the trip and €0.30 for the reloadable paper card. If you’re staying in Dijon for a few days keep the card and you will just pay €1.40 per trip moving forward. You can pay by tapping your credit card or mobile wallet on the machine.
From the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, you need to get on Tram 2 (T2) in the direction of Valmy. On board, tap your ticket on one of the card readers to validate your journey. The train station is just one stop away, and you’ll arrive there in three or four minutes.
And just like that, your day in Dijon has come to an end!
I visited Dijon on a day trip from Beaune. For more information, check out my article with ten things to do in Beaune.
Dijon reminds me a lot of two other mid-sized French cities that I love: Avignon and Lyon. If you like the looks of Dijon, consider adding them to your France itinerary!
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