Coimbra was one of my favorite stops on my month-long trip across Portugal. Situated midway between Lisbon and Porto, on the banks of the Mondego River, Coimbra is the perfect destination to experience a more authentic side of Portuguese life. Plus, there are lots of interesting, affordable things to do in Coimbra, making it ideal for budget travelers and anyone looking to escape the bigger, more hectic cities.
Most of the popular things to do in Coimbra are located on the east riverbank, on the hill that has become a symbol of the city. From here, everything is only a short (albeit steep) walk away. I’m going to list my favorite things to do in Coimbra in an order that makes sense geographically, so that if you follow in my footsteps there won’t be too much doubling back up the same hills over and over.
#1 – Largo da Portagem
This was my starting point in Coimbra, and it is one of the best places to visit in the city. This pretty riverfront plaza is home to several beautiful buildings (look at that pink bank!), traditional Portuguese cafes and a statue of Joaquim Antonio de Aguiar, who was Portugal’s prime minister in the early 1800s.
My lovely local hotel, Pharmacia Guesthouse, was just a block away from this square. So, every morning I went downstairs and stopped for breakfast at Pasteleria Briosa – typically one of their savory pastries (with spinach and cheese), fresh orange juice and a galão, which is Portugal’s version of a cafe latte.
#2 – Rua Ferreira Borges
Again, my hotel in Coimbra (Pharmacia Guesthouse, a boutique guesthouse in the city’s original vintage pharmacy building) was located on this pedestrian street in the city center. Paved with traditional Portuguese tiles, known as calçada portuguesa, this street is lined with local shops, cafes, restaurants and historic monuments.
Rua Ferreria Borges runs from Largo do Portagem north to Praça 8 de Maio. Along the way it passes Porta de Barbacã, the arched entrance into the historic walled center, and the Torre de Almadina, a medieval stone tower.
#3 – Church of Sao Tiago
Midway down Rua Ferreira Borges a small staircase leads down to the Church of Sao Tiago (Igreja de São Tiago) in Praca do Comercio.
This church dates back to the 13th century, and has undergone significant architectural changes throughout its history. Perhaps most significantly, in the 1500s they literally just built a new church on top of the one that existed here. Later, in the mid-1800s, they literally cut off half of of the main chapel to accommodate the widening of Rua Visconde da Luz.
I was in Coimbra for five days and didn’t ever see the church doors open, but there are recent photos online from visitors so I think entrance is just luck of the draw.
#4 – Hear Coimbra Fado Music at Café Santa Cruz
One of the absolute can’t-miss things to do in Coimbra is to hear a fado performance at Café Santa Cruz. Fado is the traditional musical style of Portugal, and Coimbra has its own fado tradition that rivals that of Lisbon. The fado of Coimbra is only sung by men, and singers often wear the uniform of the city’s famous university (more on that below).
The building that houses Cafe Santa Cruz in Coimbra used to be part of the adjacent monastery, but has been a cafe for 101 years. Visit early in the day for a coffee and pastry, and check with the staff about the time when the evening fado show will begin.
At the time of my visit, performances were nightly from about 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm. There was no admission fee as long as you were ordering drinks.
#5 – Monastery of Santa Cruz
Coimbra is not the best city in Portugal to see the nation’s famous blue tiles (azulejos) but you can spot them on the walls inside the Santa Cruz Monastery.
This church dates back to 1131 and is the final resting place for many of Portugal’s early royals. In 2003, it was declared to be a National Pantheon.
When I visited it was free to enter the church, but a separate admission ticket was required to see the tiled sacristy, treasury and cloister.
#6 – Jardim de Manga
I would have thought this free Coimbra attraction dated back to the futuristic 1940s or 1960s, but it’s actually from 1528! It’s just around the corner from the Monastery of Santa Cruz, and it used to serve as the monastery’s fountain. The structure is dotted with pools, fountains, columns and towers.
Just beside the Jardim de Mango you’ll find Mercado Municipal D. Pedro V, Coimbra’s main market. I believe the opening hours are Monday to Saturday, from 6:00 am to noon, but schedule in Portugal can be… fluid. 😉
Near the market you’ll also notice a large exterior elevator (Elevador de Mercado) that appears to connect the riverfront district with the hilltop university. However, for the duration of my five-day stay the elevator was out of service, and locals tell me that it’s more common for it not to work than for it to be operational. Don’t count on being able to take it up the hill.
#7 – Avenida Sá da Bandeira
This steep, curving avenue marks the entrance to Coimbra’s university district. It’s lined with shops selling the city’s traditional post-secondary robes (which are said to have inspired some of the costumes in Harry Potter) and cheap restaurants and bars serving the 21,000 students who reside in the city.
As you walk along Avenida Sá da Bandeira towards Praça da República you’ll pass a number of monuments, including one to the beloved poet Luis de Camões and another, shown above, memorializing those who lost their lives in World War 1. You’ll know you’ve reach the plaza when you spot the Fountain of Nogueira, whose design inspired the nearby park’s nickname of “Mermaid Garden”.
From here, you can head uphill towards the university, or back downhill to some of the attractions on the west side of the hill. On my first day exploring Coimbra I continued up to the university, so I’ll follow that route in this list as well.
#8 – Aqueduct of São Sebastião
As you approach the University of Coimbra at the top of the hill, you’ll pass the Aqueduct of São Sebastião. This is a 16th century reconstruction of a Roman aqueduct, which was built to provide a water supply to the residents living in the upper part of the city.
The statue in front of the aqueduct is a memorial to Pope John Paul II, who traveled to Coimbra as part of a wider Portugal trip in 1982. At the time of my visit to Portugal, in 2023, the country was also preparing (and spending) to welcome Pope Francis. Coimbra didn’t reap the benefits of the investment in the Pope’s visit, but nearby Fatima certainly did.
#9 – The University of Coimbra
Without a doubt, the most famous thing to do in Coimbra is to visit its illustrious university. Known around the world (and truly famous throughout the Portuguese-speaking world), Coimbra’s university has a rich history and numerous attractions that are worth visiting on their own.
The University of Coimbra is one of the oldest universities in the world, and dates back to 1290. In Europe, only the University of Bologna in Italy is older. For hundreds of years it was the only Portuguese-language university on the planet, and consequently it developed unique customs and traditions, such as the striking black robes worn by students and departmental singing groups (you might even spot some robed students singing around the city center!).
The only part of the university that can be entered freely is the courtyard, known as the Paço das Escolas. From here, you have a nice view of the historical building facades and of Coimbra’s riverfront. To enter the famous university buildings, you will need to buy a ticket.
- Official Site – You can buy tickets through the official University of Coimbra site. I recommend the ticket that includes the library and the royal palaces.
- Private Guided Tour – This 1.5 hour private tour will take you through the Royal Palace, Chapel of St. Miguel, Joanina Library, Academic Prison and other buildings, with an expert guide to explain the history and architecture along the way.
Either way, in high season you need to book your University of Coimbra tickets well in advance. On my first day in Coimbra I arrived at the university before lunch and they were already sold out of tickets for that day and the following day. For two days later, only inconvenient times (early morning or right before closing) were available.
#10 – The Joanina Library
The University of Coimbra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the gem in its crown is the Biblioteca Joanina, or the Joanina Library. A masterpiece of Baroque architecture and literary history, this library houses approximately 200,000 books, of which 40,000 are on the ornate first floor.
Interestingly, the Joanina Library is one of only two libraries in the world that – intentionally – has a resident colony of bats! The little creatures are allowed to stay in the library because they eat insects that would otherwise eat the books. At night, library staff cover the furniture with heavy leather sheets to protect them from bat poop, and in the morning the sheets are removed to restore the interior beauty.
The university takes access to the library very seriously, and there’s little room for error in your own visit. To make your visit go smoothly, and to ensure you get inside, remember these tips:
- Buy your ticket as soon as you know your Coimbra travel dates.
- If you purchase a ticket through the official site, the time on your ticket is your time to enter the library.
- Access to the library is via the meeting point at the Academic Prison (and some visitors report that the whole experience feels a bit prison-like!).
- Arrive at the meeting point no later than ten minutes before your scheduled entry time. If you miss your entrance window, you will not be refunded.
- Your visit begins with ten minutes in the Academic Prison followed by ten minutes in the library.
- The library is dimly lit to preserve the ancient books.
Full Transparency: Because photography is not permitted in the library, I licensed the photo shown above from a professional photographer, as I didn’t want to risk getting kicked out by taking my own photos!
#11 – Botanical Gardens of Coimbra
One of my favorite things to do in Coimbra was to wander through the city’s spectacular botanical gardens, which date back to 1772. Admission to the gardens is completely free (they pretend it’s included in the university ticket, but again, it’s always free!).
The origins of the gardens are in Portuguese colonialism, so the gardens are filled with plants imported from distant lands that Portugal explored and colonized in the 1500s and 1600s. Later, as the university’s Faculty of Medicine expanded, the focus shifted to the study of medicinal plants. Today, the gardens have a conservation focus.
I recommend starting your visit at the top of the gardens (near the university) and walking downhill. The lower part of the gardens is a breathtaking bamboo forest, with the lowest exit point being just behind the (now closed) Museum of Urban Transportation.
#12 – National Museum of Machado de Castro
Named after the 18th-century sculpture Joaquim Machado de Castro, this is Coimbra’s foremost art museum. Its simple facade hides a stunning interior composed of ancient Roman cryptoporticos (underground arches) and a modern renovation that won the Piranesi Prix de Rome for its innovative approach to restoring the historical site.
Inside, you’ll find Roman antiquities, medieval artwork, religious artifacts, sculptures by Machado de Castro himself and temporary exhibits of contemporary art.
At publication time, the museum’s official website is down (this is surprisingly common for Portuguese tourist attractions). Until it’s back up and running, you can get information from the museum’s official Facebook page.
#13 – Sé Velha (Old Cathedral)
One of the last things to do in Coimbra that are on the hilly side of the river is the Sé Velha, or the Old Cathedral of Coimbra. Tickets cost €2.50 and can be bought at the door (except during mass).
Construction on this church began in 1139 and it underwent various modifications through the 1600s. It’s definitely worth going inside to see the intricate designs throughout the church, including almost 400 capitals (the top part of columns) carved from stone and the exterior cloister that features many Arabic art influences.
Coimbra also has a “New Cathedral”, which was built on top of the hill, by Jesuits, in the 18th century. It’s less evocative than the Old Cathedral, but since it only costs €1 to enter you might want to pop in when you’re near the university.
#14 – Santa Clara Monastery
Another Coimbra attraction with both a new and old variation, the Santa Clara Monastery is on the opposite side of the river from the other sights I’ve mentioned so far. The nuns who lived here in the Middle Ages swore a vow of extreme poverty, but even they couldn’t put up with the constant flooding of their riverfront home. Eventually, near the end of the Renaissance period, they packed up and moved to a new monastery a few blocks back from the river, at a higher altitude.
Today, the site of the old monastery is preserved as an archeological site. There is an interpretive walking path inside (check hours before trying to visit) that uses artifacts found on the site, along with other types of displays, to explain the history of the nuns and the city.
#15 – Bridges of Coimbra (and Riverfront Walks)
After trekking up and down the hill in Coimbra every day, I grew to appreciate the flat terrain of the city’s riverfront promenades and bridges! Those bridges include the Ponte Pedro y Ines (the colorful pedestrian bridge I was standing on when I took the photo) and the Santa Clara Bridge (you can see it in the distance, near the historic center).
It takes about 40 minutes to walk a complete loop from the city center across one bridge, along the waterfront, across the other bridge and then back. If you’re in Coimbra for more than one day then this is a nice break from the more crowded center.
#16 – Festivals in Coimbra, Portugal
- Coimbra Medieval Fair – While it isn’t as big as the nearby Obidos Medieval Festival, Coimbra’s medieval fair (shown above) is a fun summer festivity filled with street food, music, market stalls and more.
- QuebraJazz – Coimbra’s summer jazz festival sees a steady schedule of jazz concerts and other artistic performances throughout the summer.
- Queima das Fitas -This “Ribbon Burning” celebration for university students is one of Europe’s biggest student festivals. It takes place in May, after classes end for the year.
- Festival Refresca – Launched in 2023, I hope this festival becomes a permanent fixture! I was there for the grand opening of this festival that brought street food, creative drinks and live music to the riverfront park.
Bonus Coimbra Travel Tips
Do you have any questions about traveling to Coimbra? I’ll try to answer a few basics here, but if there’s something else you want to know, leave me a note in the comments!
Is Coimbra worth visiting?
Absolutely! Coimbra was one of my favorite stops on my one-month trip across Portugal. Even in the middle of summer it didn’t feel overcrowded and it was easy to get immersed in the local daily life.
How many days in Coimbra?
Personally, I stayed in Coimbra for five days. However, I had six full weeks in Portugal and lots of time to travel slowly. I think Coimbra deserves more than a day trip, so I recommend spending at least two or three full days in Coimbra. You’ll definitely need that much time to visit the Coimbra tourist attractions noted above.
If you’re staying overnight in Coimbra, I highly recommend Pharmacia Guesthouse. It’s an easy (and flat!) five-minute walk from the Coimbra train station, in a heritage building in the middle of the historic center. As an alojamento local it does not have on-site staff, but you can send a message to their team via WhatsApp with any questions or concerns that may come up.
How To Get to Coimbra?
I traveled to Coimbra from Obidos, which required a transfer in Caldas de Rainha. From Coimbra, I traveled onwards by train to Porto.
- To get from Porto to Coimbra, I recommend taking the train. Fast trains make the journey in 70 minutes, several times each day.
- To get from Lisbon to Coimbra, the train is again your best option. The trip take 90 to 120 minutes, depending on the train speed.
- To get from Aveiro to Coimbra, I recommend the train. On a fast train, the trip takes less than 30 minutes.
- If there is a train strike (as there was during my trip!) you can also use intercity buses to travel to Coimbra from any of these cities.
Coimbra has two train stations: Coimbra and Coimbra B. Coimbra is the old station close to the city center, and Coimbra B is further away (the walk takes approximately thirty minutes). The two stations are connected via a regional train that travels between the two stations once or twice per hour.
Coimbra’s bus station is near the Coimbra B train station. Again, it takes about thirty minutes to walk from the bus station into the historic center.
If you’re arriving in Coimbra by car, the easiest place to park is at the large lot on the opposite (southwest) side of the Santa Clara Bridge from the historic center, near the stadium. When I walked past last summer, signage indicated that parking there was free.
Click here to read all of my Portugal travel guides.
I also have a list of my favorite tours and excursions across Portugal – just the best ones!
The highlight of my month in Portugal was this day trip to the Duoro Valley – don’t miss it!
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