Planning an Eastern Europe itinerary can be daunting. When you’re still sitting at home, it can feel impossible to figure out buses and trains, to know which destinations are really worth visiting (and for how long!) and whether or not it’s safe to be a solo traveler in Eastern Europe. That’s how I felt before I began my own two-month trip across Eastern Europe as a solo female traveler… but once I arrived and got my bearings, it was smooth sailing all the way from Albania to Estonia!
My EPIC Eastern Europe Itinerary Background
I personally followed this exact epic Eastern Europe itinerary on my own solo trip across Eastern Europe, from south or north. The trip to took me eight weeks and I usually stayed at least two nights in each destination, but aimed for three or four where possible. If you don’t have two months, you can do any section of this itinerary with the amount of time you have. For example, you could just spend ten days in the Baltics, or a week in Albania and North Macedonia. Do what works for you!
I took this trip as a solo female traveler on a backpacker budget. That meant that I used public transportation to move around and between cities, I stayed in hostels and I kept an eye on unnecessary expenses (like taxis, drinking and partying). I followed this Eastern Europe itinerary in July and August. Things were definitely busy, but I didn’t ever have to plan hostels or transportation more than a few days in advance. I carried The Lonely Planet Eastern Europe, which I highly recommend you pack and read on the bus or train between destinations.
It’s not super-relevant, but I think it’s also worth nothing that I’m a vegetarian, and I didn’t have any problems finding delicious food at any of the places I visited in Eastern Europe. From the beautiful fresh salads of the Balkans to the hearty potato pancakes and buckwheat of the Baltics, the vegetarian options were interesting, affordable and tasty.
Also, because I know I’ll get some comments, I need to point out that there is no official definition of “Eastern Europe”. There are no official boundaries between Western Europe, Central Europe and Eastern Europe; instead, it’s a matter of perception, both from the people who live in a place and the people who experience it as a visitor. I am confident that people who follow my epic Eastern Europe itinerary will end their trip feeling as though they experienced Eastern Europe.
If you’re interested in Eastern Europe but would prefer to explore one country in more depth, I have a new four-week Romania itinerary 🇷🇴 with optional extensions to Moldova and/or Hungary.
1. Corfu, Greece (2 Days)
Speaking of the divide between West and East, I began my Eastern Europe itinerary in Corfu, Greece. I don’t think anyone would say that Greece is part of Eastern Europe, but I was flying on airline points and it was the furthest east I could go before the airline reclassified my destination as Eastern Europe and made me use more points for the flight. If you’re coming from North America, you might want to look at flying into Corfu as well, since flights to Greece are often much cheaper than flights to the Balkans.
I spent two days on Corfu. First, I went into Corfu Town, did a little exploring and bought a ticket for the ferry to Albania. Then, I visited a few nearby beaches and slept off my jet lag. On the second day I signed up for a boat tour, which took us to some beaches that were further afield, a few nearby islands, and even a cave where we could swim in the darkness with bats flying overhead. I’m from Western Canada, and I liked how lush and green the Corfu landscape was, especially compared to the stereotypical images you see of other Greek islands that are all white stone everything.
Hostel Recommendation: Local Hostel & Suites
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Pension Elena
2. Sarande, Albania (1 Night)
From Corfu, I took the ferry to Albania. The ferry costs about €25 and takes 30 minutes on a fast hydrofoil, or 90 minutes on a slower boat. I knew I’d officially arrived in “Eastern Europe” when I stepped off the ferry, walked across the parking lot to the road, and was immediately passed by a pick-up truck with a bear in the back. That wasn’t the only bear I spotted in Sarande, as some local families seemed to keep them chained in their front yard instead of a guard dog.
Sarande is a burgeoning beach town, and since I’d just come off two beach days on Corfu I didn’t feel like I needed to stay in town long. Instead, I spent a day jumping into the cool, clear sea with the local men (in retrospect I was the only female, although I don’t think I noticed at the time!), eating huge salads with fresh veggies and feta cheese, and planning my onward travel. If I was going to return to the city I would definitely stay longer and do some day trips, like to Butrint (archeological ruins) and The Blue Eye (a natural spring pool).
Hostel Recommendation: Hostel Hasta La Vista or Saranda Backpackers
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Armar Hotel
3. Gjirokaster, Albania (1 Night)
An hour outside Sarande by bus, Gjirkaster (also spelled Gjirokastra) is a well-preserved traditional Ottoman town. Like the next destination on this Eastern Europe itinerary, Berat, Gjirokaster’s historical center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its thirteenth-century castle, churches, mosques and houses.
Gjirokaster is a small town, so you only need to stay one night to see its highlights. Visit the hilltop castle (with its American spy plane monument) early or late in the day, as the afternoon sun can be scorching. Former dictator Enver Hoxha’s house has been converted into an ethnographic museum, and several other traditional houses have reopened as house museums that give you a glimpse into Ottoman life.
Depending on your travel style, you may be tempted to visit the nearby village of Lazarat, which used to be one of the largest marijuana-producing regions in all of Europe and whose underground economy made up half of Albania’s GDP (according to the Pulitzer Center). Police stings shut down most of the industry a few years ago, so I don’t think there’s much to see or do (or buy…) today.
Hostel Recommendation: Stone City Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Bebej Tradicional
4. Berat, Albania (2 Nights)
If you’re pressed for time, I would recommend skipping Gjirokaster and heading straight from Sarande to Berat, another beautiful, traditional Ottoman city. Located on the banks of the Osum River,
I spent two full days in Berat. On my first day, I explored the town itself. I got an early start and walked up to the citadel (Kala), then wandered downhill and checked out the different stone houses, churches and mosques. Along the riverfront there is is a pedestrian promenade that is especially nice in the evening, when the temperature drops. On my second day in Berat, I joined an organized day trip through my hostel. We took a short bus trip, then hiked through the forest to the Bogove Waterfall and spent the afternoon relaxing in the cool water (which was much appreciated, as it was over 40° Celsius at the time of my visit!).
Hostel Recommendation: Berat Backpackers Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Hani i Xheblatit
5. Ohrid, North Macedonia (3 Nights)
Since this is an epic Eastern Europe itinerary, I think I have to mention my most epic travel fail here. I departed from Berat on the bus to Ohrid, North Macedonia… but completely missed my stop and ended up back in Greece! Well, technically speaking I realized my error at the Greek border, and thanks to the kindness of strangers I somehow made it back to Lake Ohrid, if a few hours later than expected. This is one of the few bus trips on this itinerary that may require changing buses, so ask at your accommodation in Berat about current transportation options (you’ll probably have to change in Elbasan, and maybe in Struga too).
Lake Ohrid straddles the border of both Albania and North Macedonia. I stayed on the North Macedonian side, in the waterfront town of Ohrid. I spent about a day and a half just wandering around Ohrid, including its Old Town area and the path that runs along the river. An easy walking trail takes you up to Samuel’s Fortress, a fourth-century fortress that was the capital of the first Bulgarian Empire. From here, it’s an easy walk to Saint John at Kaneo (shown above), a stunning Macedonian Orthodox church perched high above the lake. It’s easy to take picture-perfect photos from the church from the path above.
For my last day in Ohrid I took a boat over to Sveti Naum, on the opposite side of the lake. Here, there is a beautiful Orthodox monastery (occupied by both monks and peacocks), situated between the lakefront and the nearby springs and forests. I highly recommend taking a boat ride out into the springs, which are so beautiful that it feels magical.
Hostel Recommendation: Old Town Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Villa Amfora
6. Skopje, North Macedonia (2 Nights)
Although Skopje is the capital of North Macedonia, it is relatively small, with just over 500,000 citizens. So, you can easily take in the highlights of this city with a simple two-night stay. The easiest way to get here from Ohrid is by bus, as they operate almost hourly during the high season.
My favorite thing to do in Skopje was to explore the Old Bazaar (shown above), the largest in the Balkans. More of a neighborhood than a traditional market, the streets here are full of shops, street vendors, artisans, cafes and restaurants. There are also some charming old hotels right inside the bazaar. I also liked exploring the more modern center, especially around Macedonia Square where a huge statue of Alexander the Great is the center of an evening light and fountain show.
Hostel Recommendation: Mickitos Hostel & Apartments
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Bushi Resort & Spa (a tiny splurge with a great spa!)
7. Pristina, Kosovo (2 Nights)
Kosovo is the second-newest country on the planet (after South Sudan), and visiting Pristina is an opportunity to learn about how a country creates itself. Try to stay at a family-run hostel, like GOT Prishtina Hostel (linked below) because you can learn the most about this new nation by talking to the people who call Kosovo home.
The most famous landmark in Pristina is the National Library of Kosovo, a bizarre building with 99 domes and an exterior that seems to be entirely covered in some kind of mesh. You can enter the library and look around, although you may have to provide a passport to the security staff. Next door, an unfinished Serbian-Orthodox church stands in ruins, still unfinished, as a reminder of Kosovo’s fight for independence.
Kosovo also has other important landmarks, including an iconic NEWBORN sign celebrating its status as one of the newest countries, a statue of Bill Clinton (located on none other than Bill Clinton Boulevard) and a Catholic church dedicated to Mother Teresa (she was actually born in Skopje, but was ethnically Albanian).
Hostel Recommendation: GOT Prishtina Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Emery Hotel
8. Podgorica, Montenegro (1 Night)
I know someone will argue with me in the comments, but I’m going to be blunt. The only reason to come to Podgorica, Montenegro is to say you’ve visited the least-visited capital city in Europe. Again, if you have to cut something from your Eastern Europe itinerary, cut Podgorica.
According to my notes I stayed here two nights, but according to my memory time stood still while I sat in 40° heat doing absolutely nothing. To be fair, I ran into another traveler who I’d met in Ohrid and the two of us did have an enjoyable afternoon visiting Ostrog Monastery, just outside the city. The drive up to this monastery, which is carved into a vertical rock face, is not for the faint of heart. Inside, the bones of Saint Basil are wrapped in silk, and local pilgrims make the journey to the monastery on foot to pay their respects.
(Want to know how to connect with other travelers during your trip? Check out my guide to making friends while traveling!)
Aside from Ostrog Monastery, or trips by car to other surrounding monasteries, there aren’t many things to do in Podgorica. I wandered around the city and checked out the Soviet-style architecture, random monuments and colorful graffiti, and from reading other bloggers’ accounts of their stays it seems that I didn’t miss out on anything more exciting.
Hostel Recommendation: Hostel Q (* not in the center!)
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Aurel
9. Kotor, Montenegro (3 Nights)
Note: I actually recommend that you choose either Kotor or Dubrovnik, rather than staying overnight in both. Choose Kotor for a quiet, affordable stay in a place with beautiful views. Choose Dubrovnik if you’re looking for more tourist attractions, activities and parties (or if you’re a Game of Thrones fan).
Kotor is something of a hidden gem: although it gets its fair share of day-trippers (many coming on tours from Dubrovnik), the town quiets down at night and you really get the chance to take in the moody, mysterious vibe of its ancient stone center.
On my first day in Kotor I explored the historic city center by joining a walking tour. Once I had the lay of the land I took some time to retrace parts of the tour’s path and visit the interior of the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon and some of the surrounding churches. As the temperature cooled a bit I started my hike up to the Kotor Fortress, which took about an hour (to be fair, I stopped and took a lot of photos!). When I did the hike here was nobody at the entrance to collect my admission fee, but I believe it usually costs €8.
The next day I joined a full-day tour of the highlights of North Montenegro. We departed from Kotor and drove to Durmitor National Park for an easy, four-kilometer hike around the Black Lake. On the way back, we stopped at the Tara Bridge and the Ostrog Monastery (I wouldn’t have gone there from Podgorica if I’d known it was included in the tour). The national park is at a high altitude and it can be chilly under the dense tree coverage, so I recommend that you bring a jacket and long pants for the hike.
On your third day, take a day trip to Dubrovnik or simply relax and enjoy some more waterfront stolls, and maybe a few museum visits, in Kotor.
Hostel Recommendation: Montenegro Hostel 4U Party (because you need at least one party hostel on your itinerary!)
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Guesthouse Nikoleta
10. Dubrovnik, Croatia (3 Nights)
Note: As I said above, I suggest choosing either Kotor or Dubrovnik, rather than staying overnight in both. Kotor offers a more quiet, budget-friendly stay in a place with beautiful views. Dubrovnik has more tourist attractions, activities and parties (and, I’ve been told, some landmarks you may recognize from Game of Thrones).
As I mentioned above, I opted to stay in Kotor rather than Dubrovnik, so I can’t give any personal recommendations. If you’re doing things the opposite of me, this full-day Montenegro day trip from Dubrovnik will take you to Kotor, along with the nearby towns of Perast and Budva.
With your other two days, there is lots to see and do in Dubrovnik. You’ll definitely want to spend an hour walking along the old stone walls, and for even better views you’ll want to ride the cable car up to Mount Srd (you could also hike up in about an hour, but I love cable cars!). Back down at town level, Dubrovnik’s Stari Grad, or Old Town, is full of pretty stone buildings, monuments plazas and churches.
Make your final day a beach day by renting a chair and umbrella at Banje Beach (next to the Old Town) or Sveti Jakov Beach (a bit further down the coast, but known for its soft sand and clear water). If that sounds boring to you, consider a quick boat trip to Kolocep Island, where you can hike around the island and swim at the beaches you find along the way.
Hostel Recommendation: Hostel 365 4U
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Art Hotel Dubrovnik
11. Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina (2 Nights)
Mostar was one of my favorite stops on my own Eastern Europe itinerary. Named for its iconic Old Bridge, Mostar rebuilt itself, with the support of UNESCO, following mass destruction during the Bosnian War in the 1990s. The bridge you see today is a careful reconstruction of the original, which dated back to the 1560s.
In the summer months, local divers plunge off the top of the bridge into the freezing, shallow waters below. They train for years to do the dive safely, which is why I would never recommend that my readers pay the €25-50 or that they charge tourists to jump off the bridge.
There are lots of other things to see in Mostar, including the historic old bazaar district, several smaller bridges, numerous mosques and the impactful Museum Of War And Genocide Victims. The restaurants along the river were all very vegetarian-friendly at the time of my visit, so I was also able to linger over leisurely lunches and dinners with lots of grilled vegetables, fresh breads and local cheeses.
From here, your next stop will be Sarajevo. This is a spectacular train journey, and it’s highly recommended that you take the morning train and sit on the right side of the train for the best river views. (If you’re following this itinerary in reverse, and going from Sarajevo to Mostar, then you’d want to sit on the left.)
Hostel Recommendation: Hostel Mirror
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Pasha
12. Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina (3 Nights)
Sarajevo was one of my favorite destinations in Eastern Europe. After Mostar, I already knew that Bosnia and Herzegovina had captured my heart, and Sarajevo only made me more sure that this was a country I’d need to explore further. I’m recommending that you stay for three nights, but I actually ended up sticking around for five nights because I was enjoying my time in the city so much!
I think the first thing you need to do in Sarajevo is a walking tour that explains the city’s old and new history. My top recommendations are:
- Old Town Walking Tour – This 2.5-hour tour starts in Bascarsija Square and delves into the city’s Ottoman history, as well as its role in the events that led up to World War 1.
- Bosnian War & Fall of Yugoslavia Tour – This three-hour tour is partially by van, as you’ll ascend up to the hills outside Sarajevo to learn more about the years the city was under siege, see the iconic Olympic bobsled tracks that were later adopted as cover by snipers, and visit the Tunnel of Hope that was used to smuggle food and medications into the city during the siege.
I did both tours during my stay in Sarajevo and don’t think my visit would have been complete without the knowledge I learned from the local guides.
I spent the rest of my time exploring the city center, visiting some of its landmarks, shopping in the markets and taking in the city’s cafe culture. Sarajevo also has some important museums, including the new War Childhood Museum, which tells the story of the Bosnian War from the perspective of local children, and Galerija 11/07/95, which memorializes the Srebrenica genocide. This is heavy stuff, but hopefully by remembering what happened we can avoid such atrocities in the future.
Hostel Recommendation: The Good Place Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Story
13. Zagreb, Croatia (1 Night)
I never planned to visit Zagreb. Rather, it was supposed to be a quick change of trains between Sarajevo and Vienna. Unfortunately, trains in Eastern Europe aren’t the most reliable, and I ended up missing my connection, leaving me with a full day (but not an overnight) in Zagreb. I arrived around 6:00 am and had about ten hours in the city until the next train to Vienna, so I checked my backpack at the station and made it a full day of exploring.
I don’t actually think you need more than one day to see Zagreb, as with the little time (and energy) I had, I was still able to see all of the city’s highlights. From the train station I walked through the park to Ban Jelacic Square, and arrived just as some market vendors were setting up. Then, I took a funicular (apparently it’s the shortest in the world!) to the Upper Town area, with the colorful St. Mark’s Church and the eight-hundred-year-old Cathedral. On my way back down to the station I had enough time to visit the Museum of Broken Relationships, where artifacts tell the personal stories of people who fell out of love.
I’m sure I could have spent another day in Zagreb, but I was on a mission and had to get to Vienna!
Hostel Recommendation: Swanky Mint Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Jägerhorn
14. Vienna, Austria (2 Nights)
I also didn’t plan to visit Vienna… and my prior missed train connection meant that I had even less time than expected in the Austrian capital. I arrived in Vienna just after dinner, grabbed some falafel from a street vendor, and immediately went to bed at the Wombat’s Hostel (which I really liked, and would have enjoyed staying at longer!).
I have family near Vienna, so the next morning I took a series of buses out to the village where they live and spent a few days with them. From there, I continued directly to Bratislava, so I didn’t have much opportunity to explore Vienna itself. However, most of my friends and family members have included it on their own Eastern Europe trips, so I’m sure you can find lots of good information about the city without me!
Hostel Recommendation: Wombat’s Vienna Naschmarkt
Affordable(ish) Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Domizil
15. Bratislava, Slovakia (2 Nights)
Vienna and Bratislava are super-close, and hourly trains make the trip between the two cities in just sixty minutes. Tickets cost about €10 and you don’t need to reserve them in advance. If you don’t feel like spending the night in Bratislava, it’s also a very easy day trip from Vienna.
For me, two days in Bratislava was perfect. I started by doing a walking tour with my hostel, which included stops at Bratislava’s most famous sites, including The Blue Church, Michael’s Gate, the Opera House and Primate’s Palace. After the tour, a few of us went over to Bratislava Castle and then went out for dinner and (a lot of) drinks.
The next day, I went to the medieval Devin Castle, about ten kilometers outside the city center. You can explore the old castle grounds, see where the Danube River meets the Morava River, and learn the legend of the Maiden Tower (I won’t spoil it for you!). After spending one day in the city and one day just outside, I felt like I’d spent ample time in Bratislava and was ready to move on.
(Technically, from here I detoured to another village where a childhood friend was living, but I wouldn’t recommend that you do the same!)
Hostel Recommendation: Hostel Folks
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Beigli Hotel & Garden
16. Krakow, Poland (3 Nights)
Krakow was my introduction to Poland, and of the three cities I stayed in, it was my least favorite. To be fair, that’s only because Krakow has a lot of tourists, and there’s a reason for that – there’s lots to see and do here!
You could easily spend a day in Krakow’s Old Town, checking out the market area, listening to the trumpeter call from St. Mary’s Church, and following the Royal Road. It’s also worthwhile to visit Kazimierz , Krakow’s historic Jewish quarter, which is now a bohemian district popular with artists and designers. No matter what, don’t miss a visit to Schindler’s Factory, where you can learn how this industrialist saved more than 1,000 Jews during the Holocaust.
Of course, many people use Krakow as a base for day trips to World War 2 concentration camps. As this is something that affected my family, and since I was traveling alone, I simply didn’t feel up to visiting a concentration camp while I was in Krakow. However, for those who are prepared to take on that emotional burden, these are two highly-rated tours that include pick-up in Krakow:
- 7-hour tour of the Auschwitz Museum and Birkenau Camp to a symbol of the Holocaust and memorial to the victims of the Nazis.
- Learn the tragic story of the Holocaust on a guided tour of the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum.
- Visit Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camps with a professional educator who will tell you about its history.
Hostel Recommendation: Greg & Tom’s Beer House Hostel 😉
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Liebeskind Boutique Hotel
17. Torun, Poland (2 Nights)
For me, Torun was welcome respite from the crowds in Krakow. Everything felt a lot calmer here, and I was happy to stay in the city for a day an a half.
The most random “popular” thing to do in Torun is to visit Nicolas Copernicus’ house, which is now a house museum. Room on the ground and upper floors showcased how Polish people lived during the Renaissance, with furnishings, antiques and artworks, and also showcased some of Copernicus’ discoveries. Randomly, in the basement, there is a separate exhibit dedicated to gingerbread cookies, where you can even bake your own souvenir cookie (the staff told me they weren’t edible though?).
Torun also has a beautiful historic center with colorful row houses, towering brick churches and lots of statues and monuments. Hotel and restaurants prices here are much lower than in Krakow, making it a preferable stop for budget travelers.
Hostel Recommendation: Hostel Freedom
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Eter
18. Gdansk, Poland (3 Nights)
Of the three cities I visited on this Eastern Europe itinerary, Gdansk ended up being my favorite. Popular with domestic tourists but not as well known to foreign travelers, Gdansk was the perfect place for me to spend three days.
Gdansk was where I felt like my high school history classes came to life. A huge highlight for me was taking the Black Pearl “pirate ship” to Westerplatte, where the first battle in World War 2 occurred. After I explored the peninsula and caught the return sailing to town, I ascended the old crane in the National Maritime Museum, which was surprisingly cool. I also spent half a day immersed in the European Solidarity Center, which tells the story of the Polish trade union and civil resistance movement under Lech Walesa (another person I’d learned about in school!).
Unfortunately, the most direct route between Gdansk and Lithuania would pass through Kaliningrad, which is part of Russia (and thus requires a Russian visa). At the time of my visit, buses that didn’t pass through Kaliningrad were only operating every other night, and were selling out quickly, so I had to wait in Gdansk an extra day until I could get a ticket. I believe this route is still operational. With this extra day I took a trip to Malbork Castle, but they had already sold of interior tickets by the time I arrived, so I recommend booking a castle tour in advance.
Hostel Recommendation: Hostel Mamas & Papas (highly recommended – it’s not in the center but it’s awesome!)
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Qubus Hotel Gdasnk
19. Kaunas, Lithuania (2 Nights)
The overnight bus from Gdansk to Kaunas usually arrives between 4:30 and 5:00 am, so it might be worthwhile to book the previous night in a hostel if you want to be able to freshen up and rest a bit upon arrival (otherwise, definitely ask about early check-in!).
Kaunas has a small, walkable city center with some interesting attractions, like a funny little Devil Museum and the Art Deco, hilltop Christ’s Resurrection Chuch (also known as the Church on the Hill). For me, though, the most interesting thing to do in Kaunas was my visit to the Ninth Fort (shown above), a Soviet fortress that the occupying Nazis turned into a concentration camp in 1941. Where I had been uncomfortable with the idea of visiting Auschwitz, the Ninth Fort sees very few visitors and allows for a more quiet, introspective experience.
Once I arrived in the Baltics, I used Lux Express buses for all of my intercity travel. These comfortable coaches have reclining seats with footrests and seatback TVs, and if you’re feeling fancy you can pay a small surcharge for a single seat with nobody beside you.
Hostel Recommendation: The Monk’s Bunk
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Moxy Kaunas Center
20. Vilnius, Lithuania (2 Nights)
I actually preferred Kaunas over Vilnius (again, mostly because there were so few tourists in Kaunas!) but Vilnius is definitely worth a day or two on your Eastern Europe itinerary.
Besides its historic center, the big draw in Vilnius for many backpackers is the chance to visit the self-declared “republic” of Užupis, an artsy riverside neighborhood where I ate the single worst meal of my life (seriously, go back to the historic center to eat!). As you cross the pedestrian bridge into Užupis you can stop at the information center and get a passport stamp from this “republic”.
Hostel Recommendation: 25 Hours Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Artagonist Art Hotel
Affordable Luxury Hotel Recommendation: Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel
21. Riga, Latvia (3 Nights)
My favorite city in the Baltics was definitely Riga. As a solo female traveler in Eastern Europe this was one of the easiest cities to connect with other travelers for sightseeing, adventuring and even partying.
I stayed at the Naughty Squirrel and signed up for all of the activities offered by the hostel, from walking tours of the Old Town to an excursion where we went to an underground bunker and shot AK47s (spoiler: I’m not the best sharpshooter). I got last-minute gallery tickets to the ballet, wandered through the amazing Art Nouveau district, shopped at the covered food markets and generally had so much fun. Give yourself three days here so that you can connect with other travelers and do some of those cool things you might not be able to do on your own.
Because I’m kind of obsessed with spas, I also took a day trip to Jurmala from Riga by train. Jurmala used to be a glorious Baltic spa town, though it’s a bit run-down today. Still, some of the hotels offer spa services for a very affordable price, and I was able to book in for a last-minute body scrub, Vichy shower (which was better than the actual one in Vichy, France!) and salt room session.
Hostel Recommendation: Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel
22. Tartu, Estonia (1 Night)
If you have to cut something from your Baltic itinerary, you can skip over Tartu. One day is ample time to explore this university town (which is extremely quiet in the summer, when the students have gone back home).
I had two days in Tartu, but I definitely only needed one. That’s enough time to see the Old Town (including the famous statue of two kissing students), the ruins of the Tartu Cathedral, and the botanical gardens. Tartu also has a few popular breweries, so when you run out of things to do you can start drinking the local craft beer from Puhaste Brewery or A. Le Coq Brewery.
Hostel Recommendation: Hektor Design Hostel
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Villa Margaretha Boutique Hotell
23. Tallinn, Estonia (3 Nights)
And here we are at the last stop on our Eastern Europe itinerary – Tallinn, Estonia! Needless to say, by the time I reached Tallinn I had been on the road for almost two full months and I was having a lot of feelings – I was dreading the thought of being back at work in a few days, excited to keep in touch with all the new friends I’d met, and wondering if I’d ever be able to get rid of all the blisters I’d developed walking 20,000 steps a day in flip-flops (don’t worry, I’ve since switched to Birkenstocks!).
As with many of the other cities on this tour, I started my time in Tallinn with a free walking tour (I did the one recommended by my hostel). Most walking tours will take you to all the main attractions in the historic center, including Town Hall Square, the gates to the city and Alexander Nevski Cathedral. I met a guy on the walking tour and we fell in love and had babies went to the Patarei Prison, an abandoned Communist prison where the staff and inmates had just left… leaving all of their stuff inside in varying states of disarray. Unfortunately the prison is currently closed until 2026, but keep it in mind if you’re planning a future trip to Tallinn.
If I’d had one more day I would have gone to the Estonian Open Air Museum, an ethnographic museum just outside the city center. Here, they have reconstructed typical Estonian villages of the 18th and 19th centuries, so you can get a sense of what rural life would have been like.
Hostel Recommendation: Fat Margaret’s
Affordable Hotel Recommendation: Citybox Tallinn Center
Eastern Europe Itinerary Summary
This was the exact two-month Eastern Europe itinerary that I followed one summer, all the way from Corfu, Greece to Tallinn, Estonia. I did the entire trip by bus and train on a backpacker budget, usually staying in hostels but occasionally splurging on a great-value private hotel room (especially in hotels that had saunas!).
As a solo female traveler, I felt very safe in Eastern Europe. Locals treated me very kindly and the other travelers who are drawn to this route tend to be curious, social and confident (the type of people I like to travel with!).
Despite being on the road for two months, I never got bored when I was traveling in Eastern Europe. From the day I arrived in Albania and was greeted by a bear in the back of a pickup truck, to the day I flew out of Tallinn with a newly-acquired vintage leather jacket I’d bought at the market, every destination offered something different and unique. I wouldn’t hesitate to follow the same itinerary again (maybe in reverse though, just to change things up!).
Do you have questions about my Eastern Europe itinerary? Let me know in the comments and I’ll reply ASAP.
Before you go, check out my guide to saving money on travel (it’s kind of important on a long trip like this!) and my tips for making friends along the way.
Planning a trip to Eastern Europe? Pin this post for later!
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