Lagos or Albufeira? Albufeira or Faro? Faro or Lagos? Planning a trip to Portugal’s Algarve Coast can be confusing, especially if you haven’t been to the region before and don’t have a good sense of how the region’s most popular cities are different. This was the situation I found myself in last summer, when I was blindly planning a trip to Portugal’s south coast with no real idea of what to expect once I arrived.
In this guide I’m going to share my experiences staying in Faro, Albufeira and Lagos. I’ll talk about the beaches, things to do and restaurants in each city, along with my general impression and whether or not I’d recommend each as a destination for other travelers. You might be surprised by what I have to say!
The Algarve: An Overview
Map adapted from Tschubby on Wikimedia Commons
The Algarve is the southernmost region in Portugal, crossing the width of the county from the Atlantic Ocean to the… Atlantic Ocean. That’s right – Portugal does not have any Mediterranean coastline, only Atlantic beaches. The width of the entire coastline is about 160 kilometers and can be driven in less than two hours.
Lagos, Faro and Albufeira are all cities along the Algarve Coast. Each consists of an actual city (marked with a red star on the map above) and a wider municipality consisting of outlying towns and villages.
All three cities are connected by train and bus, both to one another and to cities in the north like Lisbon and Porto. Of course, it’s also easy to drive between the three cities (finding parking is another story!).
Faro vs Albufeira vs Lagos
Faro, Albufeira and Lagos are the three most-visited cities on the Algarve. I spent several days in each of these Portuguese cities on my most recent trip, and I was surprised by how different they were. Each city had its own atmosphere, beach culture and unique attractions, and it was by sheer chance that I happened to book the most night in the city that I ended up liking the most.
Below, I’m going to rank Lagos, Albufeira and Faro in order of how much I liked them, starting with the city that I enjoyed the least and ending with the one that I’d happily return to. I don’t want to say this list is ranked from “worst” to “best”, because that’s not really fair, but I will say that it’s ranked from my least-favorite to my favorite, based on my personal preferences and travel style.
#3 – Faro ⭐
Faro was my first stop on the Algarve and it was also my least favorite. It seemed that most people coming to Faro flew into the city’s international airport and then left the city immediately for one of the cheap all-inclusive resorts along the nearby coastline. So, while the town did have some shops, cafe and restaurants, there wasn’t much to see or do. You’d think you could just relax on the beach, right? Well, keep reading to see why that’s not as easy as it sounds!
The Beach in Faro
Entirely due to my lack of research, I hadn’t realized that there wasn’t a proper beach in Faro! You see, Faro is actually separated from the Atlantic Ocean by the Ria Formosa Lagoon, a 170 km² wetland that is great for birdwatching but not so great for swimming in the muddy water.
The easiest way to reach the real beach in Faro (shown above) is to take a thirty-minute ferry ride from the port in the Old Town out to Praia Faro. The normal ferry costs about €4 for a return trip, but some private tour operators offer “sightseeing” trips along the same route for more than triple the price. Don’t get ripped off!
Once you reach the beach there is plenty of room for you to lay down your towel, or you can rent beach chairs and umbrellas for about €20 per day. There are public toilets in a building near the ferry terminal, and there are several shops, restaurants and bars where you can buy food or drink throughout the day.
Things to Do in Faro
The really historic part of Faro is extremely small – the walled historic center is less than 200 meters across in either direction. Inside, I enjoyed visiting the Church of Santa Maria (I took the photo above from the bell tower – you can see how the shoreline is lagoon, not beach) and walking along the cobblestone streets, under the ancient medieval arches.
Past the historic center you’ll find the modern city center, radiating out from the port. Websites that claim there are “lots of really cool things to do in Faro” are lying – this part of the city has a few small museums and churches, most of which have unpredictable opening hours and little to see inside. You can easily see the city in a morning, and then head out to the beach in the afternoon.
If you do happen to have a few days in Faro (maybe, like me, you didn’t research well before you booked your accommodation!), there are tours that depart from Faro for the Benagil Cave, but it’s way closer to Albufeira so I would recommend doing the tour from there.
Restaurants in Faro
I stayed at A da Avo Guesthouse, which served a delicious breakfast spread every morning. So, I only went out in Faro for lunch and dinner. The three restaurants I would recommend are:
- Mani’s Momos – The best South Asian food I’ve had in Europe. I had the pani puri and the vegan jhol momos and they were both delicious.
- Sao Pedro Fusion Restaurant – Great pinsa romana, or Roman-style pizza.
- daTerra Faro – A vegan restaurant with a 100% plant-based lunch buffet. I wouldn’t go for breakfast or dinner, when you have to order from the menu, but the lunch buffet is always good.
Final Thoughts on Faro
I would not return to Faro and I wouldn’t recommend it to other travelers. The distance from the town to the beach, combined with the lack of interesting things to do in the center, make for a boring vacation destination.
#2 – Albufeira ⭐⭐
Albufeira was my second stop on the Algarve and it was a welcome relief after Faro. After dropping off my bags at my hotel in Albufeira I went for a quick walk down the street and was delighted to find a beautiful ochre-sand beach at my doorstep… no ferry ride required!
The Beach in Albufeira
Albufeira has a beautiful beach right in the city center. Even better? It’s connected to the city center with a free elevator, so you don’t have to trudge up flights of stairs after a strenuous day of suntanning and cooling off in the sea! There’s also a convenient underground tunnel that connects the center to the beach, although you’ll then need to ascend a few flights of stairs to reach the hotels, restaurants and shops.
The stretch of beach shown here goes by a few names, including Praia dos Pescadores (“Fishermen’s Beach”) and Praia do Peneco (“Boulder Beach”, named for the boulder that juts out of the sand a few meters way from the elevator). Again, this is just meters from the historic center, and it’s a good option for people who want to swim as it’s in a partial cove, so the water is quite calm.
Just east of the center you’ll find the main Praia de Albufeira, which runs another kilometer or so down the coast and is lined with hotels, resorts and beach bars. At all of the beaches in Albufeira there’s lots of room for your own towel and umbrella, or you can hire a beach chair for the day.
There are several beaches on the east side of Albufeira as well, but these require you to circumvent the marina, which basically becomes an hour-long walk. It would be easier to come by taxi or Uber, but since I’d already blown my budget I skipped these beaches.
Things to Do in Albufeira
I have to confess that I didn’t do very much when I was in Albufeira. I’d been on the road for more than a month by this point in time, and since I was staying at the stunning Vila Origens Boutique Hotel I decided to take it easy by spending most of my time relaxing by the Moroccan-inspired pool, reading books and writing about my travels. Every now and then I would pop down to the beach (less than five minutes away) or stroll through the city center in search of gelato.
My personal laziness aside, there are definitely more things to do in Albufeira than there are in Lagos. Even just wandering around is more enjoyable (and more steep, to be fair) as the center is full of pretty houses inspired by Moorish architecture, cobblestone streets and old churches. The main square is packed with restaurants, bars and shops, and Albufeira’s nightlife attracts young party-goers from near and far.
Of the three main cities on the Algarve, Albufeira is also the closest to the region’s famous Benagil Cave. Erosion has hit this cave from all sides, leaving a skylight-shaped hole in its domed roof, plus two circular entrances facing the water. Benagil Cave boat tours take about three hours, including a visit to the entrance of the caves, dolphin-watching (fingers crossed!) and a stop for swimming (not inside the cave – this was outlawed in Autumn 2023). If you’re an adventurous (and fit!) traveler you can also reach the caves by stand-up paddleboard or kayak.
Restaurants in Albufeira
Once again, my hotel in Albufeira served breakfast. Here, it was an epic, Instagram-worthy poolside champagne breakfast featuring fresh bread, butter, jams, different cheeses, fruit salad, coffee, juice and pastries. It was probably enough food for the entire day, but I still ventured out for lunch and dinner a few times.
I noticed that the restaurants in Albufeira seemed to cater primarily to British tastes, which doesn’t always align with the way I like to eat. There are only two restaurants I can genuinely recommend. The first is Sugar Rabbit Kaffe, a vegan restaurant just past the elevator that has fabulous breakfast, brunch and lunch dishes. I ate there several times and enjoyed everything I tried. The second is Flavours, which was very touristy but they had a surprisingly good homemade veggie burger on their mostly-meat menu.
Final Thoughts on Albufeira
I definitely preferred Albufeira over Faro. My hotel was absolutely perfect and I can recommend a stay at Vila Origens Boutique Hotel for anyone looking for a little bit of R&R in a central location on the Algarve. Albufeira also seems like it would be a great place for young travelers looking to enjoy afternoons at the beach followed by fun nights out with friends and other travelers.
#1 – Lagos ⭐⭐⭐
My last stop on the Algarve was Lagos and it quickly became my favorite spot on the coast. Unlike the previous two destinations, I can happily recommend Lagos to other travelers and would even be open to returning myself in the future. Lagos doesn’t just have beautiful beaches and a vibrant town center… it’s also just cool.
Lagos actually reminded me a lot of Canggu, the hip surf town in Bali… except you don’t need a scooter to get around here! The pretty streets are lined with independent cafes, restaurants, boutiques and services, and there are no “package holiday” vibes to be found.
Good to know: “Lagos” is pronounced “lah-goesh”, with an “sh” sound at the end.
The Beach in Lagos
Lagos several beautiful beaches within easy walking distance of the city center. I stayed in Casa Luma B&B, a lovely independent guesthouse run by a welcoming young couple who go out of their way to make sure you enjoy your stay. From here, it was a pretty ten-minute walk to Praia da Batata, a clean beach in a sheltered cove. From here, when the tide is out you can also cut through an arch in the rocks to access Praia dos Estudantes, which gets its name from the students who hang out here.
The rugged coastline south of the center is dotted with many other beautiful beaches. Shown above is Praia Dona Ana, which again had clean, protected water that was nice for swimming on a hot day. Further down the coastal trail you’ll find Praia do Camilo, where a steep wooden staircase leads to a smaller and busier beach, complete with a high-season beach bar. If you’re exploring by kayak or paddleboard, you can pull into Praia da Balança, a similar beach that is only accessible from the water.
North of the center, the coastline is flat and the long beaches are sandy. Mei Praia runs for 4.5 kilometers just north of the marina; a two-minute, €1 boat ride across the channel saves you from the fifteen-minute walk. I went on a sunny Sunday morning in August and it was almost noon before anyone came to charge me for the beach chairs and umbrella I’d been using!
Things to Do in Lagos
Of the three cities I visited, Lagos definitely had the most fun things to do.
Probably the most popular activity in Lagos is to follow the seaside walking trail south along the coast, to Ponte de Piedad. It’s a beautiful walk with several beach stops along the way. When you reach the end there is a lighthouse, a small cafe (stop for a drink, but eat back in town) and a stairway down to the tiniest of coves, where you can see the different rock formations and/or hop on an (expensive) boat for a scenic trip back to town.
The streets around the marine are lined with tour companies selling trips by boat to Ponte de Piedad (I suggest walking instead – it’s lovely!) and the Benagil Caves (I suggest going from Albufeira). The boat trip that did pique my interest was a half-day dolphin watching tour, which included sightseeing along the coast, lots of dolphins and a short swimming stop, all on board a two-level boat with a shady interior cabin to escape the hot sun.
⭐ My Lagos dolphin-watching tour made my Top 10 list of activities and excursions in Portugal. Click here to see them all. ⭐
The center of Lagos is much nicer than Faro or Albufeira, and you could easily spend a day strolling around, shopping in the cute little shops, stopping for drinks and popping into the different churches, museums and galleries around town. There is a municipal market on the waterfront – make sure to go up to the second level to shop for very unique, handmade souvenirs.
Restaurants in Lagos
The food scene in Lagos is incredible. There is a huge cafe, restaurant and bar scene, including many creative and innovative restaurants serving interesting dishes. There’s also a good mix of Portuguese restaurants and international restaurants (many of which are owned by expats who now call Lagos home). I’m a vegetarian – I don’t think any of the restaurants below are vegetarian but they all had incredible food that I am happy to recommend:
- Nah Nah Bah – Definitely reserve your table in advance if you want to eat at this popular Lagos hotspot. I didn’t, and I was so lucky that they were able to squeeze me in at the bar, where I ordered this amazing goat cheese salad. Bring home a bottle of their homemade hot sauce as a souvenir!
- Pom Pom Bagels – I visited twice and both times the food was great. I even took one of their bagel sandwiches to-go on my last day in Lagos, and ate it on the train ride back to Lisbon!
- Black & White Coffee Shop – There’s always a queue here for brunch, and for good reason. You’ll feel like you’re in Australia when you have one of their flat whites with a slice of avocado toast.
- Pomo – Another restaurant with a permanent queue at dinner, this authentic Italian restaurant lists their daily pastas on a board outside… join the line if one looks good!
- La Esterella – I didn’t expect to end up at a Belgian restaurant in Portugal, but I couldn’t resist stopping by for a bowl of their vegetarian chili made with Belgian beer and Belgian chocolate. They have a great selection of bottled craft beers.
- Beats & Burritos – It’s way too hot inside this busy Mexican restaurant, so take one of their made-to-order burritos to go and enjoy it along the waterfront.
- Goji Lounge Cafe – If you just want a quick, fresh juice or smoothie for breakfast, brunch or lunch, this is where I’d recommend you visit.
If you’re coming to Lagos in the low season make sure to check each restaurant’s opening hours online before you go, as some only open seasonally or have limited hours in the off-season.
Final Thoughts on Lagos
If I return to Portugal in the summer I will definitely plan to stay in Lagos for at least a week. The proximity of the different beautiful beaches, the amazing food scene, and the overall vibe are exactly what I look for in a summer beach destination.
Summary: Faro vs Albufeira vs Lagos
Of the three cities in the Algarve that I visited, Lagos was definitely my favorite and it’s the one that I think most of my readers will like the most. Everything is at your doorstop when you stay in Lagos, from coastal walking trails to white-sand beaches to quirky shops and restaurants. There’s no “tacky tourist” atmosphere in Lagos – it feels laid-back, relaxed and cool.
However, I can also see the appeal of Albufeira for young travelers looking for both easy beach access and a social nightlife scene. If you like going out at night to drink and listen to music, you’ll have fun in Albufeira.
Faro? I simply can’t recommend it. Unless you’re an avid birdwatcher and visiting during the migration season, I don’t see the appeal of a sleepy town with few things to do and a huge lagoon separating it from the beach.
Hopefully this guide will help you make up your mind if you’re choosing between staying in Faro, Lagos or Albufeira on your next trip to Portugal. No matter which city you choose, I recommend that you book your accommodation very early, as you’ll find that hotels, guesthouses and apartments are already fully booked for the summer months by March or April. Don’t leave your trip planning to the last minute!
Still planning your Portugal itinerary? You might also like my comparison of Lisbon vs. Porto!
Before you go to Portugal, check out all of my Portugal travel guides along with my tips for saving money on travel.
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