When I traveled to Puglia last summer there was one thing that I knew I absolutely could not miss: staying on a typical working farm, which is called a masseria. Sure, the Baroque architecture of Lecce and the turquoise beaches of Monopoli were nice, but I knew that I also wanted the chance to experience more of the authentic South Italy countryside.
Staying on a farm in Italy was a bit outside my comfort zone, as my aversion to driving meant that I usually stuck with cities and towns that were accessible via bus or train. However, I’m so glad that I took the leap to rent a car, because spending three nights on a tranquil organic farm in the Italian countryside was just what I needed at the end of a long, hot summer!
This will be a bit of a trip report and a bit of a travel guide. I’ll talk about the masseria that I picked, what it’s like to stay on a farm, what you can find the surrounding areas, how I rented a car in Salento, and some other possible masserias that you might want to consider for your own Puglia trip.
What is a masseria?
Basically, a masseria is a working farm that is also open to visitors, either through an on-site restaurant or guesthouse. In other parts of Italy the term agriturismo is often used, but in Puglia it’s more common to hear the term masseria.
Historically, many masseria were fortified with defensive walls to protect both the landowners and their workers, but the relative peace in the world today means that modern masseria don’t require that level of security. Some historic masseria still have these walls and guard towers, but most are open to the surrounding countryside.
Masseria Messer Gesualdo
Disclosure: I paid in full for my stay at this masseria and did not disclose that I was a blogger.
The masseria where I decided to stay was called Masseria Messer Gesualdo. It is a family-run farm and guesthouse located in Salento (the southern part of Puglia), about 40 kilometers south of Lecce, 30 kilometers southwest of Otranto and 10 kilometers northwest of Castro Marina.
I chose Masseria Messer Gesualdo for a few reasons. The main draw was the location, within easy driving distance of Otranto (where I would be picking up my rental car and then staying for a week after I left the masseria). As well, I liked that they were listed on Booking, as I’d tried emailing some other masserias directly and never heard back (not hearing back was actually the norm, rather than the exception). Plus, I liked the idea of staying on a smaller, family-run farm rather than a larger touristic operation.
My Room at the Masseria
My room at Masseria Messer Gesualdo was clearly new, spacious, modern and cool in the summer heat. From the front door you walked in past a large closet and bathroom (sorry, I forgot to take a picture but it too was very spacious, with brand-new fixtures) into the bedroom, which had a queen-sized bed, sofa, desk and mini-fridge.
The back of my room opened onto a private shaded terrace that looked out over the family’s fields. Most days I came back from sightseeing and swimming in the sea for a quick shower and then a quick snack of fresh fruit and water on the terrace to tide me over until dinner.
The Masseria Grounds
Most of the other people staying at Masseria Messer Gesualdo were families, and the kids clearly loved spending time around the pool. There were lots of lounge chairs that you could move into the shade or sun, floating pool toys for the kids, and even a hammock strung between some trees.
In the early evening I took a stroll around some of the masseria ground, led by the family’s two dogs. They led me out to the goat enclosure, and along the way we passed the fields where the family grows 100% organic olives, tomatoes, onions, melons and legumes.
Food & Drink at the Masseria
I was so busy taking pictures of the masseria’s cat that I forgot to take a good photo of my breakfast! Each morning breakfast was served at a table in the shade by the pool. There was fresh bread and pastries, fresh fruit from the farm, coffee and juice, and eggs from the family’s chickens that were cooked to order.
My understanding is that some evenings they also serve dinner, but as I was only there for three nights I didn’t have the chance to try out their dinner service.
What’s nearby?
One of the things I loved about Masseria Messer Gesualdo was its proximity to nearby towns and villages in Puglia. It was my first time driving in Italy and I was nervous about driving on dark country roads after nightfall, so having dozens of dinner options within a ten-minute drive was very reassuring for me.
I had dinner in three nearby towns: Spongano, Poggiardo and San Cassiano. Of the three restaurants where I had dinner the one I’d recommend the most is Trattoria Picalo; it’s informal but it’s so popular with locals that on a beautiful summer night you’ll definitely need a reservation (which you can do right on their website).
I also passed through Poggiardo on my way to and from the beach, and did a quick grocery run at the large Familia supermarket down the highway at the Gulliver shopping centre.
In retrospect, I wish I’d kept my rental car for longer and not felt so pressured (by myself!) to use it just to go to and from the beach. These small towns in Puglia are absolutely beautiful and certainly worth spending some time exploring.
Speaking of beaches, you’re obviously very close to many beaches here as well. You’re within convenient driving distance of Otranto, where you can both park and rent a beach chair for the day easily (which is very unusual for Puglia in the summer!). I also spent a morning at Santa Cesarea Terme (shown above), where I was able to find a spot on the shore but the beach chairs were booked for months. My second day was spent at a beach near the Alimini Lakes – here there is a two-kilometer stretch of pure white sand and crystal-clear water that is great for swimming.
Getting To and From Your Masseria
Although you can travel around Puglia without a car, you probably can’t stay at a masseria without one. I rented a very small automatic car from Mastroleo Noleggio in Otranto for the three days I was at the masseria. The rental process was very informal and everything was done via WhatsApp. Generally speaking I found the driving quite easy, but in smaller coastal towns like Castro Marina there was literally no parking by mid-afternoon, so plan accordingly.
Other Masserias in Puglia
Of course, I only stayed at Masseria Messer Gesualdo, and I can happily recommend them. If I was returning to Puglia I would definitely extend my car rental to five days and make it my home base for exploring the southern tip of Salento.
However, if they’re fully booked, or if you’re looking for a masseria that is larger, or fancier, these farmstays in Puglia also have great reviews. The first three are in the southernmost part of Puglia, and the last three are closer to Alberobello, near the Val d’Itria.
- Agriturismo Panacea – Staff at this family-run masseria head to their orchards at 5:00 am to pick the organic fruits and vegetables that will appear on your breakfast plate. After breakfast, the beautiful beaches of Santa Cesarea Terme are less than ten minutes away.
- Masseria Un Posto al Sole – Only three minutes from the sea, Masseria Un Posto al Sole is perched on a hill overlooking the azure waters of Otranto. The owners are well-known local bakers and can accommodate gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian travelers at breakfast.
- Antica Masseria Pescu – I’m obsessed with the stunning infinity pool at this masseria in Presicce, one of the (officially!) most beautiful villages in Italy.
- Masseria Dan Domenico – This is a famous, five-star property in a converted former masseria once used by the Knights of Malta. It’s no longer a working farm, but you won’t mind when you’re dining at one of the six restaurants or relaxing on their private beach.
- Masseria Pozzo Tre Pile – Located just outside Martina Franca and within easy driving distance of Alberobello, Ostuni and Locorotondo, this masseria gives you the chance to sleep in an authentic Puglian trullo (a white stone house with conical roof).
- Masseria Greico – Offering a full range of activities including cooking classes with local ingredients, forest walks, yoga classes and poolside aperitivos, this masseria near Ostuni is an oasis for travelers looking to relax.
I spent the summer in Puglia and wrote about almost all of the places that I visited. You can use the search bar to find all my Puglia posts, or start with my ten-day Puglia itinerary or one of my guides to Alberobello, Locorotondo or Monopoli’s (amazing!) beaches.
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