Do you like pretty places? Do you like charming small towns? Do you like wandering along narrow streets, waving at the grandmothers looking down at you from their windows above, stopping for a glass of wine with a view of the sunset… If that’s you then you are going to love Locorontondo. The prettiest town in Puglia (in my opinion) delivers more charm than Ostuni and more authenticity than Alberobello, making it an essential stop on your Puglia itinerary.
Although most people pass through Locorotondo in a few hours, I stayed for a few nights and really got to know the historic center of the town. In this guide I’m going to share some of the best things to do in Locorotondo, recommend a few great restaurants that I enjoyed eating it, and highlight some hotel options for travelers who (like me!) want to take it slow and stay for a night or two in this porcelain-colored paradise.
Things to Do in Locorotondo
I stayed in Locorotondo for two nights, giving me the equivalent of two full days in the town. You certainly don’t need that much time to visit Locorotondo, as two or three hours is enough time to stroll through the historic center and see the things I’ve highlighted below. However, I did think the town was prettiest as the sun set across the vineyards and olive trees below, so do consider making it an overnight stop on your Puglia itinerary.
Locorotondo Centro Storico / Historic Center
I was hoping that those four photos would be enough to convince you that it’s worth visiting Locorotondo and its historic center! I truly can’t describe how pretty the historic center is, and even months after my visit, as I write this post, I keep gasping out loud on my sofa and saying, “It’s so pretty!”
The earliest mentions of Locorotondo date back to the late 1100s, and within two hundred years it had grown into a proper hamlet. Today, it is known for its iconic white walls (personally I think it might be whiter than nearby Ostuni!), which are often decorated with handmade arts and crafts. These are connected by a network of narrow cobblestone alleys, where vines spill down the walls and balconies look down upon the streets.
Spend an hour or two simply getting lost in the Locorotondo old town, wandering where your imagination takes you. Early and late in the day you’ll have most of the streets to yourself, and it’s only in the afternoon when the tour buses and day trippers arrive that it starts to feel touristic.
Artisan Studios & Shops
Locorotondo has an active arts and craft scene. The city is known primarily for its ceramics and lacework, both of which are on display throughout the historic center.
At Il Tempo Ritrovato the owner works with a team of local women to preserve the region’s needlework tradition. The shop sells everything from delicate earrings (perfect souvenirs!) to full-size wall hangings. Across the piazza, Ceramiche Pugliesi (shown above) has colorful housewares and home decor made according to regional traditions.
Sirose Vineyard & Wine Tasting
Italy is full of beautiful vineyards but many of them are so far outside the city center that they’re nearly impossible to visit unless you’ve rented a car (and who wants to drink and drive?). In Locorotondo, visitors are able to have a beautiful wine tasting experience on a local vineyard just a few steps away from the historic center.
Bufano Sirose is situated just below the belvedere (panoramic lookout point) at the entrance to the Locorotondo historic center. In the evenings they are open for wine tastings, which you can reserve and pay for at a kiosk they set up on the pedestrian walkway.
I opted for the four-course wine tasting on my last evening in Locorotondo. It’s not a guided tasting, but for each wine you have a choice from two or three bottles, and the staff can explain the wines to help you make a choice. Once they’ve filled your glass you’re free to wander into the vineyards to find a seat and enjoy the sunset. When you’re ready for your next drink you can go back to the kiosk and they will assist you again. The experience is very hands-off and you can drink at your own pace, just enjoying the view and the company.
Palazzo Morelli
Palazzo Morelli is a landmark in Locorotondo. Recognized as being one of the best local examples of Puglian Baroque architecture, what you see today primarily dates back to the 1700s. Once the home of the governor, today the palazzo is divided into three private apartments that are not open to the public. Still, from the street you can see the ornate facade and look into the entrance courtyard.
The Church of Saint George
In my opinion, the most interesting church to visit in Locorotondo is the Church of Saint George (San Giorgio), named after the patron saint of the city. There has been a church on this site since at least the 1500s, but the building you can visit to day dates back to the early 1800s.
The ground floor of the church features a typical Classical design, but the most interesting part for tourists is the subterranean crypt. Here, the relics of Santa Felicissima are on display in a small chapel, and the adjacent Chapel of Purgatory houses relics from numerous other saints.
Other Churches in Locorotondo
There are several other pretty churches worth visiting in and around the historic center of Locorotondo.
- Church of the Madonna Addolorata – The Church of Our Lady of Sorrows is located near the entrance to the historic city center. Local legend says this church was built in the same location as a former castle, and was given its name to memorialize the abuses that took place against those who were held captive in said castle.
- Church of Saint Nicholas – Jolly Old Saint Nicholas actually hailed from Myra, Turkey (I changed buses there once!) but Puglia claims his as their own, as he is now buried in Bari’s Basilica of San Nicola. This small chapel in Locorotondo also honors Saint Nicholas, and at the time of my visit also featured a fascinating advent scene painted on hundreds of local stones by a local artist (you can see it in the back right corner in the photo above).
- Church of Madonna della Greca – Just outside the town walls, this is the oldest church in the city. It has a simple facade marked with a large rose window.
The Clock Tower
Locorotondo’s pretty clock tower was built in 1819. It’s not possible to go all the way up the 22-meter tower, but there is a small municipal library in the lower floors of the tower building. When the library is open it’s free to go inside and up to the second floor, where you can look out the windows back onto the ancient stone street.
Locorotondo Panoramic Lookout
The best views of the countryside around Locorotondo can be found at the panoramic lookout point (or belvedere), located on Piazza Dante. Here, locals spend their afternoons on the shady park benches, conversing and playing card games. A wide sidewalk begins here and follows Via Nardelli in a loop around the city center, offering excellent sunset-spotting and strolling in the early evening.
Restaurants in Locorotondo
I spent three days eating my way around the historic center of Locorotondo – here are the places I would recommend you check out (and one restaurant that I would suggest you steer clear of!).
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I’m adding this restaurant first because I ate here twice! As a vegetarian in Puglia my options in restaurants were often very repetitive, which is why I appreciated that his restaurant had a build-your-own-salad-bowl on their menu. I went two nights in a row and built salads with leafy greens, grilled vegetables, nuts, seeds and cheese. They also have lots of small plates and a huge burger menu for my meat-eating readers!
Mandragora Pozioni e Porzioni
I stopped by this restaurant for lunch as soon as I arrived in Locorotondo. I had to wait a bit for a table on their shady terrace, but it was worth it. The only vegetarian option available on the day I visited was this caprese sandwich, which was clearly made with high-quality ingredients (the bread was lovely). If you’re a meat eater you’ll find lots of appealing dishes on their menu, like a pistachio mortadella sandwich and orecchiette pasta with creamy greens, anchovies, burrata and baked tomatoes.
Ombre e Fioi
I made a grievous error thinking I would be able to stop for a glass of wine at this popular enoteca and then return later for some food. They are so busy that if you see a table you need to jump on the opportunity to both drink local Puglian wines and have some of their homemade food. Check the chalkboards to see what’s on offering that day; it could be a tagliere (cutting board with cheeses and cured meats), homemade pasta, fresh salads or something else entirely.
Caffe della Villa
It never slows down at Caffe della Villa on Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. This busy coffee shop and bar draws huge crowds who come for the pastries (check out my pistachio pasticciotto), coffees and evening aperitivo. As with most cafes in Italy table service comes at a higher cost than standing by the bar, but it’s worth it to sit outside on the terrace and enjoy the views.
Cuor de Panna Gelateria
This is another place I visited twice, simply because I was so obsessed with how pretty it was! Seriously, have you ever eaten a gelato in a more picturesque environment? It helps that the homemade ice cream here is delicious and features several flavors made using traditional local ingredients. The pretty tables are hidden out the back door, so grab your gelato to go and find my hidden hotspot!
La Panega
Sometimes you don’t need a full meal at a restaurant to tide you over. If you’re just peckish, swing by La Panega for pizza by the slice, foccaccia, arancini and other typical Italian “fast foods”. It’s just a two-minute walk up the street to the belvedere where you can eat your food on a shady park bench.
Adimare Sandwich Shop & Deli
This sandwich shop and deli make beautiful sandwiches with local meats, cheeses, vegetables and sauces. They have a couple tiny tables out front but again, it’s a quick walk over to the park benches by the belvedere. I do recommend sticking to the takeaway sandwiches, though, as I’ve seen reviews from tourists saying that they when they ordered charcuterie boards and bottles of wine they were very surprised by their bills. 😲
La Braceria
I think it’s important to also note when restaurant don’t meet my expectations, and that’s what happened at La Braceria. I was so distracted wandering around Locorotondo on my second day in the town that I forgot to stop for lunch, and suddenly I found myself with a rumbling stomach in the historic center. La Braceria was open, they had a free table in the shade and their chalkboard showed that they had a vegetarian pasta, so I sat down without thinking or checking reviews.
Unfortunately this meal turned out to be pretty much flavorless (those were by far the worst olives I ate in Puglia), which was disappointing for €19. I later saw the owner responds in a hostile manner to their many negative reviews on Google Maps, which also always bothers me.
Hotels in Locorotondo
I stayed at Stars House, a lovely rental apartment about five minutes by foot from the historic center (and the same distance from the train station). I was so impressed when I checked in and found the spacious interior, featuring vaulted stone ceilings and an adorable, traditional kitchen nook. The bathroom was modern, the A/C was powerful and there was a washing machine… basically it had everything I needed for a mid-trip refresher. The apartment sleeps four (one queen bed and one set of bunk beds in a separate alcove) and there is parking on the quiet street in front.
If you’re dead-set on staying within the historic center (keep in mind you won’t be able to park at your accommodation) then I took note of the following properties that looked absolutely adorable:
- B&B Opera – Inside a historic stone building, this bed and breakfast is half retro chic, half romantic charm (check out the canopy bed!).
- Dimora U Curdunn – You’ll be living like a local nonna in this traditional apartment (with modern finishings) owned by a local restauranteur.
- Juliet’s Balcony – If you want to live la dolce vita by sinking into sunset with a glass of local wine on your picturesque little balcony, this is the place for you.
Getting to Locorotondo
Locorotondo is well-connected to other cities and towns across Puglia, whether you’re using public transportation (like me!) or opting for a private vehicle.
By Public Transportation
The Locorotondo train station is ten minutes downhill from the historic center, and is located on the Ferrovie del Sud Est line that runs from Bari to Taranto, with stops including Conversano, Alberobello and Martina Franca (where you can transfer to a train bound for Lecce). There’s no need to buy train tickets in advance, although it is possible on their official website.
There is also a good intercity bus network in the region, and Locorotondo has bus connections to Bari, Monopoli (seasonally), Martina Franca, Fasano and other nearby towns. The confusing part is finding the correct bus stop for your destination, but the staff at the Tourist Information office on Via Morelli can help.
By Tour
If you don’t want to rent a car but also don’t feel confident using the bus and train network, it’s possible to visit Locorotondo on a guided tour (usually including multiple stops). This highly rated tour departs from Lecce, while this fun option starts in Bari.
By Car
If you’re driving to Locorotondo, the closest parking to the historic center that I saw is located here. This secure underground parking lot is locked overnight, so take note of the opening hours before parking.
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I’ve got lots of Puglia travel guides in my Italy section, including tips on visiting Alberobello, Lecce, Monopoli, Ostuni, Bitonto and Ruvo di Puglia.
Matera is technically across the border into neighboring Basilicata but it also has tons of great things to do and unique cave hotels.
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