On my most recent trip to Paris I stayed a few blocks away from the Marché des Enfants Rouges, a lovely food market in the heart of the Le Marais district. I found myself returning to the market again and again, either to stock up on foods to enjoy in my apartment rental, or simply to observe the ebbs and flows of Parisian shopping life.
In this Paris travel guide I’ll take you inside the Marché des Enfants Rouges so that you can see the types of vendors and restaurants that welcome visitors every day, share a bit of the history of the market and offer a few tips to make your visit more fun.
What is the Marché des Enfants Rouges?
The Marché des Enfants Rouges is the oldest covered market in Paris. Nearly 400 years old, it has served the local community since the early 1600s. Even in the era of the supermarket, locals who live in the surrounding apartment buildings and restaurateurs who welcome guests into their nearby establishments continue to shop at this covered food market in central Paris.
The first time I visited the Marché des Enfants Rouges I asked myself, “Who were the children and why were they red?” That night, when I returned to my accommodation, I looked up the history of the market and its name. It turns out that there was a nearby hospital and orphanage for children, and those children were nicknamed “the red children”.
Why? Well, there are two theories.
Some historians believe the children wore red robes to show they were receiving charity from the orphanage. However, other historians note that red dye was prohibitively expensive, and the nickname more likely differentiated orphans whose mother died in childbirth (hence the reference to the color red) from orphans whose parents died in other ways (nicknamed the “Enfants Bleus”).
We may never know, as the hospital and orphanage closed in 1777 and the building was demolished shortly after that.
Where is the Marché des Enfants Rouges?
It would be easy to walk right past the Marché des Enfants Rouges and not realize you’re passing one of Paris’ best markets. It’s tucked away in the Le Marais district, near the Arts and Metiers metro station, the Temple metro station and the Filles du Calvaire metro station.
You can enter the market at 39 Rue de Bretagne, around the corner on Rue Charlot, or by turning onto the narrow Rue des Oiseaux (“Bird Street”!) from Rue de Beauce. I like the latter option as it takes you past the pretty Jardin Madeleine de Scudéry, a quaint little garden named after one of the few female novelists to achieve notoriety in 17th-century France.
Shops at the Marché des Enfants Rouges
It would be impossible for me to list every shop, stall, stand and vendor inside the Marché des Enfants Rouges. However, these are a few that piqued my interest.
Weekly Farmer’s Market
On Wednesdays and Sundays, from 8:30 am to 1:00 pm, the Marché des Enfants Rouges hosts a special farmer’s market. If you visit during these hours you’ll have more direct access to the producers of the foods and products available for sale.
Other Vendors
As you can see above there are many vendors in the Marche des Enfants Rouges that sell different food products. Expect to find vendors selling things like:
- Organic fruits and vegetables
- French cheeses
- Fresh seafood
- Local wines
- Preserves and condiments
- Takeaway mains and side dishes
- Flowers (okay, these aren’t food but they’re so pretty!)
You should definitely swing by the market yourself to see these vendors and to check out some of the others as well. Certainly, as a vegetarian my eyes aren’t drawn to the stalls that sell meat or fish, but you might want to make those your first stop!
Restaurants at the Marché des Enfants Rouges
Again, I won’t mention every restaurant in the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Instead, I’ll highlight a few that looked popular with the locals when I was passing through around lunch.
Lulu
Billing themselves as a “New Wave” creperie, Lulu serves sweet crepes and savoury galettes. At the time I visited they had a vegetarian galette with tomme cheese, confit onions, grilled mushrooms, coriander and mâche. They also have lots of meaty choices, including galettes with andouille sausage, smoked salmon and even fried chicken strips.
Corosol
This a Creole restaurant in the Marche des Enfants Rouges. They advertised a vegetarian or vegan plate for €14, which is exactly the kind of meal that I love – a surprised based on what is fresh at the market that day. They also serve bokit, which are typical sandwiches from Guadaloupe made on fried bread, and a great rum punch.
Burger Fermier
The concept is simple: you choose your burger (beef, chicken or soy), your cheese (from the selection on the daily board), add on optional bacon or mushrooms, and then tell the chef how well-done you want your burger. In a few minutes you’ll have your meal, which you can also turn into a formule by adding French fries.
Chez Taeko
This Japanese restaurant does bento boxes, bowls, plates and sushi platters. Vegetarian options are quite limited (for example, even the tofu dishes are often served with shrimp) but if you eat meat and seafood then you’ll love it.
Chez Jeanphi
On the outer facade of the market, at 35 Rue Charlot, Chez Jeanphi is a lovely place to grab a quick lunch. Their menu features a variety of stuffed pitas, hearty salads and plats du jour.
Les Enfants du Marché
This restaurant doesn’t take reservations, but they do serve elevated French comfort food paired with natural wines. Come early to have your pick of the daily menu items, as selling out of the most popular dishes is a common occurrence.
Chez Alain Miam Miam
It’s not inside the market but it’s right across the street, and some people say that this little restaurant is the best sandwich shop in Paris. Save €1.50 by taking your sandwich to go, or stay inside to savor the flavors of the day. Either way, come early or prepare to queue.
Visiting the Marché des Enfants Rouges
At publication time, the Marché des Enfants Rouges is open from Tuesday to Sunday. In the morning it opens at 8:30, and it usually closes around 8:30 or 9:30 pm. You can always confirm the current opening hours on the municipal government website here.
Visit early in the morning to avoid the worst of the crowds, and try to avoid the lunch hour on weekdays when Parisians from the nearby office buildings descend upon the market for lunch.
Alternately, the market is a nice place to visit for an apero, or pre-dinner drinks and nibbles. Many of the vendors have prix-fixe apero offers including a drink and one or two small plates.
Even though it’s 2025 there are still some vendors that don’t take credit cards, so be prepared with cash or plan to visit a nearby ATM.
Don’t go to France until you’ve also read all of these Paris travel guides:
🏰 How To Take a Day Trip from Paris to Fontainebleau
🌹 How to Make a Custom Perfume at a Historic Paris Perfume House
⭐ 18 Beautiful Covered Passages in Paris
💤 Where to Stay in Paris (The Best Neighborhoods and Hotels)
🎨 One Day in Montmartre – What to See & Do
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